Sprocket Location Question

O

Ole Skool Mini

New Member
#1
#1
On my vintage bike the rear sprocket set-up was" " the sprocket weld onto the rear brake drum.
The sprocket was worn out, so cut it off the drum carefully, now need to decide if I should buy another sprocket and machine hole to fit over the drum and weld again?
Or swap the brakes to the other side of the bike, and weld a drive plate on to the hub, and bolt a sprocket to it, easy to remove any time in the future.
What might be the best way to proceed, and what chain to use #35 60 T or #40/41 chain? thanx O S M
 

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O

Ole Skool Mini

New Member
#3
#3
Hi all, any ideas?, suggestions, need to figure out a plan.
I am almost inclined to place the new sprocket on the opposite side of the brakes, would put brakes on the right side, and new sprocket on the hub on the left side.
Or buy new, but what is the quality and price like on the new stuff made these days
 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#4
#4
One problem might be not being able to take the wheel apart if things are welded to both sides of the hub.

Is the drum bolt on or is it currently welded directly to the hub?
 
O

Ole Skool Mini

New Member
#5
#5
The brake drum and hub assembly is a bolt on, so could put the brakes on the opposite side of the bike, then weld on a mounting plate on the other side, and bolt sprocket to that for easy removal.
Now we are now getting into what is a "better bang for the buck", buy all new wheels tires with sprocket etc.
Or make what I have work, including new tires and tubes, front wheel is in good shape, they have good quality ball bearings made in japan, metal is super thick, but new sprocket a mounting drive disc, and new tires and tubes, versus all new.
I also will be buying a new clone engine, clutch and chain.
I will blast and paint the frame, just as soon as I know I am not going to be welding anything onto the frame, not kool when it's gotta a new paint job
 
O

Ole Skool Mini

New Member
#9
#9
Custumbikebou said:
New. The hard part would be getting a consistent weld down with out damaging the drum.
Click to expand...
Not with good equipment and experience, that part I am not too worried about, but having a good shop doing this, will cost a few bucks.
The old sprocket was welded to this drum to begin with, and not a complete perimeter weld, but 6 inch welds, looks like Mig.
The drum itself is 1/8 steel, and should take welds without too much difficulty, maybe not going around it without stopping would heat it up and warp it.
If I weld a 3 inch round drive plate, to the hub, it should be no problem, pretty beefy material..
 
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C

Custumbikebou

New Member
#10
#10
Ture. Like you already know. If you gjnna do it your self. TAKE YOUR TIME. This is just my experience working on my olf cars. I am by no means a professional but i with a decent amount of time i can make it look good.
 
O

Ole Skool Mini

New Member
#11
#11
Custumbikebou said:
Ture. Like you already know. If you gjnna do it your self. TAKE YOUR TIME. This is just my experience working on my olf cars. I am by no means a professional but i with a decent amount of time i can make it look good.
Click to expand...
Hi Thanx, again having a close look at everything, I may do the following, for 2 reasons, 1) I like the set-up, nice and heavy built, 2) I am cheap, so can spend more on other areas of the bike.....LOL
instead of welding the sprocket onto the drum, as it was when built, I might install the brakes on the other side of the bike, there are mounts for either side.
I will then buy my sprocket at my local "harborfreight type store" it has the bore hole, the right size for my hub, it can be either welded on, or bolted on to a round mounting plate, both ideas involve welding, but not any cutting a bigger center hole on the sprocket to fit over the drum.
 
O

Ole Skool Mini

New Member
#12
#12
Hi all, so was busy today, this is the plan, reversed brakes on the rear, there are mounts on either side for the brake backing plate, so not a big deal.
I also bought a large flat washer, drilled and tapped 4 holes for 5/16 UNF bolts, then I welded the plate onto the hub of the rear wheel assembly.
The #35 60 tooth sprocket can now bolt up to this, and drive the rear wheel.
Some pics, need a to get the sprocket and new tires and tubes, sprocket I will buy local.
 

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O

Ole Skool Mini

New Member
#16
#16
20160810_180919_resized.jpg 20160810_215654_resized.jpg 20160810_215701_resized.jpg 20160810_215918_resized.jpg Here is an update, bike almost completed, built a kick stand, bought a rear sprocket #35 60T, waiting on a Hilliard 10 T clutch.
need a brake lever and cable, as well as a twist throttle, have an old bicycle brake lever jury rigged for the throttle, works great for temporary.
 
O

Ole Skool Mini

New Member
#19
#19
Thanx for the "Thumbs up" Guys, did make a few errors, where I should have known better.
On the rear wheel hub assembly, where I did weld on a drive plate, instead of placing it on the hub more precisely then it is. I did weld it on in front, and some behinds, would have been better off welding it on from behind so my sprocket would move closer to the wheel.
It should be fine as Ike from Cars & Cameras would retort.
The 5 inch drum brakes aren't that great, and will need to put new linings on the shoes, and judging by the drum, would guess it is somewhat outta round, so arcing the newly lined shoes to the drums, should produce decent brakes....
 

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