Stangrcr1's Open Class VT-7

#42
Time for an update. We finally had a nice day so I got the frame and forks painted.





Please excuse the lack of TP as the paint is still tacky...

3 coats of metallic blue paint, 2 coats of metallic clear and then two coats of regular clear. Looks way better in the sun. I also painted some of the white brackets with the metallic clear and they look like pearl....
 
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#45
I'm not. I find myself thinking this part was for that one, and where did this go? So many boxes of parts and no real idea where they all go.

Just taking it one part at a time.

Right now, I am stripping all the tins off the GX120 for the wife's ride so they can be blasted. Actually the GX120 is now nothing more than the head,block,crank,and parts spread all over... Think I will order the ARC rod for it since I know they wife will want to get frisky... :thumbsup:
 
#46
Well, so much for the nice paint on the engine. I tried to put a coat of clear on it and the paint checked badly. Luckily it was mostly on the tins and tank. I have removed them and wet-sanded them back smooth. Hopefully tomorrow will be nice weather and we can try to get her white again. Glad I had not tried to put the decals on yet.

I also had to order new neck bushings as the standard 5/8x3/4 bushings no fit. 13/16" outside....

If I had another table for assembly, I could have much of it together.

Ooops. Just remembered, I need more jackshaft material... :doah:

Grrr.


One other thing. I was going to use the original front tire. Double Indian Head Carlisle 18x8.5x8, but after trying to clean it, I found a crack in the sidewall all the way to the cords. I have a tube for it, but..... The original tire still has most of the original dimples from the mold.....
 
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#47
Progress. Motor repainted and in.



And I just found out another wonderful tidbit. The crank on this motor does not have a step for the Comet driver to ride against. It slides all the way to the crankcase cover. Maybe I can fit a double split collar in there....
 
#48
Nope. Not enough room for a collar and the the clutch cover to still fit.

Looking like I will have to build up the end of the keyway to stop the driver from going that far back.

The back of the driver is less than 1/4" thick and would be hard to drill and tap for setscrews. Even then the setscrews would be tiny.

Can't think of too many other options. Any ideas?

Oh, and I have to find where Rick told me what color he painted the clutch cover. It is too far off white from the engine, so I will have to paint the engine one more coat....
 
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#50
Nope. Not enough room for a collar and the the clutch cover to still fit.

Looking like I will have to build up the end of the keyway to stop the driver from going that far back.

The back of the driver is less than 1/4" thick and would be hard to drill and tap for setscrews. Even then the setscrews would be tiny.

Can't think of too many other options. Any ideas?

Oh, and I have to find where Rick told me what color he painted the clutch cover. It is too far off white from the engine, so I will have to paint the engine one more coat....
I agree I think tacking up the keyway would work best, most of the load is radial. I was thinking "just weld on a collar" but that might interfere when you want to remove that crank case down the road. :shrug:
 
#51
I had to do that with the keyway once but i didnt weld on the crank i think i just put an extra bit of key in there cut to fit. Man youre running into all kinds of problems on this one. Cant always go smoothly I guess. Keep at it man :thumbsup: you can try super glueing that cracked tire but you might still need a tube
 
#52
Thanks!

I really would like to use the original tire, but I am thinking I would be better off with a new tire. Already ordered one.

As far as adding keystock, it looks like it will only need 1/8" or so to keep the driver from going too far back.
 
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#53
Then again....

try #2, took out the collar and slid the driver all the way in. With the back of the driver against the clutch cover bracket, the step washer has about 3/16" gap to the driver cover and the head of the clutch retaining bolt still hits the clutch cover, but barely now.







This is what I get trying to put a 1" Comet 30 driver where a 3/4" Comet 20 used to live.

So it looks like I will be countersinking the clutch cover bracket and using countersunk bolts and notching the clutch cover bracket so the driver will clear. Then I am going to shave 3/16" - 1/4" off the back of the step washer and countersink the front for a countersunk retaining bolt. That or just use a thick flat washer as that is about what will be left. Or I could cut that much off the end of the crank... And then I will still have to make a partial key to fill the gap and prevent the driver from sliding to far towards the engine.

This is fun, right? :laugh:
 
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#54
How much crankshaft is supposed to be sticking out of the motor? This one just under 3". Seems a bit long. Shouldn't it be like 2 5/8"?

I found a 1" long piece of 1/4" x 3/16" key and will shave it down to fill the keyway as needed.
 
#55
And since it doesn't take long to grind down a key, here is the "key".



and with the driver on the shaft...



And the end of the crank. Looks like crank too long to use the step washer...



Think I am going to cut 3/16" off the crank..... Still going to countersink the retaining bolt.

Ooops. Froggin quarter... Think my granddaughter took it...
 
#58
Thanks!

Whatever you do, watch out when installing a tube to prevent breaking the stem off....

Lets just say I ordered another tube...


And here is my fix for the clutch retainier.



Had to cut about 3/8" off the crank, and then countersunk the retaining bolt. Looks like it will work and have about 3/16" clearance to the clutch cover.


And why does it look like I have to take the fork lowers out to get the front tire in? Considering the axle has nuts inside and outside the fork lower, I can't feed the axle through and get the second nut inside....
 
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#59
I did have to take the fork lowers out to get the tire/axle in there. Pics:

Rear brake master cylinder reservoir... Foot brake lever not mounted yet as I can't get it bolted in while the bike is on this stand. Chain guard and footpegs are courtesy of Chatten63 and look great. Stainless pegs, Hunt-Wilde rubbers. Obviuosly my white is not the same shade as his. Once it is dirty it won't matter... :laugh:



and some front views.





Handlebars are painted, but one of them fell off my paint rack into the yard while still wet, so it will need to be sanded down and redone. Ordered the belt for the TAV from OldMiniBikes. Switch plate is painted, just need to put the decals on, mount it and find a switch. Oh, and order a seat.

Progress slow... Smoking too much between steps...
 
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