Thoughts on clear coat on a survivor?

buckeye

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#1
#1
I picked up this old Trail Horse. All original.
She had lots of rust. Cleaned her up as good as I could.
Some spots, the rust ate through the paint.
My question??

I have cleaned it more since this photo. But, you get the idea.

Is it a disservice to clear it to maintain what is left or just leave it as is?

What would you do?

 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#2
#2
pa·ti·na

noun: patina; plural noun: patinas
1. a green or brown film on the surface of bronze or similar metals, produced by oxidation over a long period.

rust
noun: rust

1. a reddish- or yellowish-brown flaky coating of iron oxide that is formed on iron or steel by oxidation, esp. in the presence of moisture.
 
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Square_Chopper

Square_Chopper

Active Member
#3
#3
That's a tough one. I had the same thought on that Cat Eliminator roller I have and went so far as to try it on a small area on the under side of the frame and I instantly realized it looked like crap. Although I've seen it done on a bunch of cars and look awesome..... Keep in mind too that rattle can clear is also gonna come out with a yellowish tint on that white survivor paint.... :confused: I don't know man, I think if it weren't a true survivor survivor I'd say go for it, but on that particular bike you picked up, I'd prolly have to say leave it aone.
 
paulhew

paulhew

New Member
#4
#4
Im glad to see you are in the preserve mode rather than the restore mode :thumbsup:
I was at a car show that had a beat up hemi roadrunner. torn interior, greasy old ticking motor... you could not get close to it because of the crowd of people !! Im rambling lol ......
Clear coat can yellow and peel after time. for me I just like to "mist" my bikes with WD40 to preserve them.
 
PAPSTISY

PAPSTISY

Member
#5
#5
?

If I had it I would rub a clear matte metal oil over the whole frame. It will work it's way into the exposed metal turning the exposed metal dark not orange rust color.
Or I would tint a clear matte metal wax. Apply to heated steel and the wax will wick it's way into pores of exposed metal. If tinted white the exposed metal will have a white color not rust color and the rest of bike will still have original paint.
You might have to play with the tint. But you can get to match.

The paint will maintain it original look and you don't loose your original patina eleswhere.
The oil dry's hard and is weather resistant. And with a couple of coats will last years.

I have an example shot and a source. PM me if interested.
 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#6
#6
I would consider clearing it with urethane, if not you will be "chasing" it all the time to keep it clean and shiny, specially in our humid/salty climate. Good 'thane automotive clear will sand easy later on if you/someone wanted redo the bike.

I regret not doing it to chopper (which is pretty much a dead on match to "patina" on yours).

 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#7
#7
PAPSTISY said:
If I had it I would rub a clear matte metal oil over the whole frame. It will work it's way into the exposed metal turning the exposed metal dark not orange rust color.
Or I would tint a clear matte metal wax. Apply to heated steel and the wax will wick it's way into pores of exposed metal. If tinted white the exposed metal will have a white color not rust color and the rest of bike will still have original paint.
You might have to play with the tint. But you can get to match.

The paint will maintain it original look and you don't loose your original patina eleswhere.
The oil dry's hard and is weather resistant. And with a couple of coats will last years.

I have an example shot and a source. PM me if interested.
Click to expand...
When I did the Volkswagens someone had mentioned something like that to me for my 1963 single cab but I never looked into it as I was really torn on what I was going to do with the truck (was planning hoping to repaint and was concerned about not getting all the wax off later). I never looked into it any deeper and then ended up selling the truck, can you send me some info on it:thumbsup:
 
PAPSTISY

PAPSTISY

Member
#9
#9
Sure

I will send you some info. The wax process is a little more difficult because you really should heat metal first and then apply.
The nice thing about wax is it can be buffed :grind:

The metal oil works great! I had a mini that was rusted and pitted. After a OA bath the rust was removed. However, the pitted areas took on rust again because those areas lacked paint.

So I purchased a matte metal oil and soaked frame and wiped down. After a week of dry time the frames bitted areas were nice and dark. Most oils will where off. This metal oil cures with no oil feeling. And if you get matte your paint looks original.
 
ogygopsis

ogygopsis

#10
#10
Buck, I may get some pushback on this but I cannot see where clearcoating will stop the rusting process. By clearcoating you will be sealing in any residual rust along with the moisture and oxygen which are always present; thereby making a perfect environment for the rusting process to continue. Think of it as putting a clear band aid over a splinter. Sure it covers it up but underneath the splinter and bacteria are still working away and the results will eventually seep through the band aid. Notice I used a medical metaphor just for you? Anyway Tom, that's just my opinion for what it's worth. Ogy
 
zombiewoof

zombiewoof

New Member
#11
#11
ogygopsis said:
Buck, I may get some pushback on this but I cannot see where clearcoating will stop the rusting process. By clearcoating you will be sealing in any residual rust along with the moisture and oxygen which are always present; thereby making a perfect environment for the rusting process to continue. Think of it as putting a clear band aid over a splinter. Sure it covers it up but underneath the splinter and bacteria are still working away and the results will eventually seep through the band aid. Notice I used a medical metaphor just for you? Anyway Tom, that's just my opinion for what it's worth. Ogy
Click to expand...
Eggzactly! I was just getting ready to make a post saying the same thing. The rust is happening under the paint.

I live in Northern Indiana, I grew up in a body shop. I have seen rust eat away at beautiful vehicles destroying them. I hate rust. To me restoration is preservation.

I am the new guy, I have broad shoulders, throw the pushback my way, leave Ogy alone.LOL:thumbsup:
 
LSCustoms

LSCustoms

Moderator
#12
#12
as others have said, clear coating over the rust, prob wont work.. at least for a good amount of time...

you could treat the rust, with either vinegar and water, wash with water afterward (clean with acetone after washing the solution) and then try to clear coat after that process... or treat it with phosphoric acid (found at home depot and places like that) and then wash with water, then acetone, then clear... :shrug: will turn the surface rust into black patina, but better than rust and still not restored, just treated and protected... :shrug:

there are several other rust reformers, including some offered by rustoleum that i believe treat the rust in a similar manner (turns it more black) that you supposedly do not have to sand... and then rustoleum also has "crystal clear" clear coat and offers that in a matte finish... :shrug:

even if you ended up having to restore the bike, if you are going to do something with the rust... i think that would be better than clear coat over the rust...
 
JDDesign

JDDesign

New Member
#13
#13
Clear Guard

I use this stuff made by Sculpt Nouveau / Clear Guard.. its a clear that works really well over rusted metal and doesn't yellow. Its worth looking into if you want to go the clear route.
 
bigrob

bigrob

#15
#15
I may be strung up for this but ......
It is a rusty original and as some would say a survivor , to me a true survivor is a bike that still looks like it came from the showroom floor.

So that being said if new decals are available I would restore it with fresh factory corect paint.
There is no shame in restoring a bike and it would be easy as its in awesome shape

Hope I didnt stir up a hornets nest lol
 
gumpit

gumpit

#18
#18
Sand it and paint it you big baby... It's your bike. Enjoy it. If you think rust is better looking than painting it then leave it. If you think it would look better painted. Get to work. It is going to take you 2 years minimum..... Hell you might even have to miss Windber the next couple of years just to finish it....:doah:
 
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