I have a HS50 I just finished building for a 67 rupp continental I am building. I would like to replace the thick blower housing with the thin one. I had already replaced the original flywheel with the earlier lighted magneto/aluminum flywheel and just received a thin shroud. First off I did not realize the difference in thickness and also the width on the thin shroud is about .5 inch thinner across the middle. First attempt at fitting it I see it does not fit over the motors current tin that the thick shroud fits over, so my first question is do I need different tins to mount the shroud to? Also being thinner is there a different starter cup for the thin shroud engines? Thanks for any help you guys can provide me.
Trying to replace HS50 cooling shroud with Older thin shroud.
Yes, you will need:
studded recoil mount shroud with the raised lip at the head bolts (studs to clear the lighted flywheel)
backing plate, it has no cut out for optional starter on the front too, you can still use the later throttle linkage though.
cup and screen, cup is about half the depth of the steel wheels
If you really want to go "stealth" swap out the head for an older HS40's to loose the cut out fin and run the wire around the front and up the left side, fill the electric starter holes in on the front of the block, and reshape the intake casting on the top
imp:
this is a converted HS50....they run warm so I don't recommend heavy amounts of paint, I'm switching to single stage for the next ones I am building (2 more), this could just be the heat generated by the box muff on this one though as the engine runs strong.
this is when I built it
some of the heat/damage after a year:
custom ID tag :wink:
I most likely have one extra backing plate right now (just have to verify) and for sure cups and screens if you need something.
studded recoil mount shroud with the raised lip at the head bolts (studs to clear the lighted flywheel)
backing plate, it has no cut out for optional starter on the front too, you can still use the later throttle linkage though.
cup and screen, cup is about half the depth of the steel wheels
If you really want to go "stealth" swap out the head for an older HS40's to loose the cut out fin and run the wire around the front and up the left side, fill the electric starter holes in on the front of the block, and reshape the intake casting on the top
imp:this is a converted HS50....they run warm so I don't recommend heavy amounts of paint, I'm switching to single stage for the next ones I am building (2 more), this could just be the heat generated by the box muff on this one though as the engine runs strong.
this is when I built it
some of the heat/damage after a year:
custom ID tag :wink:
I most likely have one extra backing plate right now (just have to verify) and for sure cups and screens if you need something.
Thanks Markus very informative. So I will need a new starter cup and just to be sure the backing plate is what bolts to the mag side of the motor and holds the shroud with the two 1/4-20 bolts at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions correct? If you have the backing plate and the cups I will buy them from you is my current screen OK?
yes the backing plate is the plate that bolts tot he engine that the 2 lower screws that hole the shroud on go to. that shroud should be fine fo your app, its ots a totally smooth transition on the top by the 3 head bolts (I cant see it in the pics) it may fight you a bit, they put the little hump in the I think to give a little more clearance for the larger heads used on the HS40 and was used on every small frame by 1970.
I do have 1 spare plate, and plenty of cups and screens I think that your screen does cross but I have quite a few so I'll just send one along just in case. I'll pm you :thumbsup:
I do have 1 spare plate, and plenty of cups and screens I think that your screen does cross but I have quite a few so I'll just send one along just in case. I'll pm you :thumbsup: