valve spring questions?

[97deluxeny]

hey guys i ordered a comp cams stock wide range cam kit for my late 80's early 90s (forget the exact year off the top of my head) 5 hp briggs i/c motor. now the stock exhaust spring looks kind of similar except the comp spring is about a coil and a half longer which coil binds bad with the new cam, but is fine with the stock cam. now the intake spring is very short and the coils are spread way out. both of the springs from comp are the same thing.... does any body have a clue on this? i planned on spining this motor to about 6900 as the cam is good til 7k.


asa side note my set up consists of, 5 hp dual bearing block with stellite valve seats, painted chevy orange, valve and lifter bores bored and bushings pressed in,tifter bores tiged, rlv strait pipe and mod silencer, comp cams wide range kit, billet lifters, arc billet rod, raptor 3 piston,3 degree timing key, milled head, hl 193 tilly cuz ec carbs didnt have a 357a.walburo pump with 7 qt plastic tank, newer cup style pull start. im gonna run the stock flywheel until the ice racing season is over and i can save money for a billet one. this is all goin on a older manco dingo no cage cart that i streached 6 inches so my 6'4 goofyness will fit. oh gonna try and run 110 leaded race gas out of a local pump too

 

[roccosbike]

Sometimes you have to do this when using a high lift cam. Same thing in the lifter area too or the lifters will break the block.

 

[97deluxeny]

its not that big of a cam tho.... .232 if i recall correctly

 

[DLR]

we use the spring pockets on the .233 cams also, with the tall 1.400 + springs you can adjust your spring pressures by cutting deeper pockets or using the Briggs .020 shim or .055 shim.

 

[97deluxeny]

so how about this for a question, are there any stiffer springs out there that i can use without cutting pockets? i would really like to not have to tear the motor all back down and have machine work done again if i dont have to. and im pretty sure the stock springs alltho they feel rather stiff will not eliminate valve float at 7k.

 

[metal man]

ives got a stupid idea call comp cams and see what they have . they would be able to tell ya if they have the parts to do that :shrug:

 

[DLR]

if they are from comp they are HD springs.

as long as their is no coil bind and at-least .040 in between the coils on the springs when intake or exhaust is open all the way, your fine let it ride.

 

[5 Horse Fan]

Are you using upper valve spring retainers?
They help keep the springs straight..........

 

[97deluxeny]

they coil bind bad, you cant even get the motor to spin over, stops dead in its tracks,

and im not using upper spring retainers. i might give comp a call today theres nothing on there site about a different style spring. so a call is needed i guess.

 

[5 Horse Fan]

they coil bind bad, you cant even get the motor to spin over, stops dead in its tracks,

and im not using upper spring retainers. i might give comp a call today theres nothing on there site about a different style spring. so a call is needed i guess.

I've used tall valve springs and upper retainers with .233" camshafts many times.
You must have a .300"+ Lift camshaft or your springs are outrageously tall.:shrug:

You could have the wrong springs, it's happen to me.
You should take them out and measure there length.

 

[Chippytoo]

You can use 2 stock Briggs Exhaust springs, or better, get a set of Dyno 1.420 springs, Reiken Racing has them for like 2 bucks each. A set of briggs thin upper retainers wouldn't hurt either to keep everything straight since you don't have pockets cut. I use the dyno springs with a setup similar to yours, stock cam lift(232.5), and have had great success.

Jason

 

[97deluxeny]

this is the exact cam i got, GoParts: Mr. Velocity Cam: Wide Range Cam *Includes Springs

and heres the specs http://www.compgoparts.com/camspecs/gp181.html its only a .231 lift on both intake and exhaust

 

[5 Horse Fan]

What about the lifters?
Where did they come from?

 

[97deluxeny]

there stock length billets from comp cams as well

 

[Chippytoo]

What did they recommend you set the valve lash at? And did you set it?

 

[minibikin']

from the Comp site:

The valve spring seat will require cutting to achieve the proper amount of pressure. Be careful not to cut the block too much!

Tells me they are not drop in? :shrug:

 

[97deluxeny]

the sheet said .005 thousanths for lash on both intake and exhaust, dropped everything in and a .005 feeler was just about perfect, minimal resistance when pulled out.... i might try and get my engines professor to take a look at it once college goes back, just went to my pond today and its turned to pure slush so ive got some time to figure it out

 

[Chippytoo]

Yeah, sounds like you need to have some machine work done, spring pockets, tappet bore chamfering, and tig welding of bore for strength. If you can do it yourself, there is a lot of info on the net on how to do it right. If not there are a lot of race shops you could send the block to, and have it done. Good luck.

Jason

 

[97deluxeny]

Yeah, sounds like you need to have some machine work done, spring pockets, tappet bore chamfering, and tig welding of bore for strength. If you can do it yourself, there is a lot of info on the net on how to do it right. If not there are a lot of race shops you could send the block to, and have it done. Good luck.

Jason

im just gonna try stock springs for now as this winter isnt turning out as good as i thought and the pond im going to race on is in perfect shape right now. once spring comes ill tear it back apart and have spring pockets cut. might go .30 over then too. this motor might get switched over to a mini bike and a local 206 briggs might go on the cart for next season.