Vibration Dampers

#1
Im running a briggs 3.5 on one of my minis. I wind it up pretty good and the vibration carries thru the handle bars at high rpms; not too high!

Any one use the rubber dampers and do they help?

Would it be better to run a damper top and bottom so that the mounting nut is not directly on the engine plate and virbration is carried thru the bolt to nut to the frame?

Other suggestions?

The engine runs great and looks to be balanced correctly; the clutch is working well and dosent vibrate.
 
#2
Yesterday I was thinking of trying the same idea. I have some 1/8" rubber mat I'm going to cut two pieces out of. One above the plate and one below. Pretty much sandwiching the adapter plate. The other problem I discovered is the huge clone muffler has to go. It sticks out and gets way too hot.
 
#3
No offense intended, but I think I remember reading rubber grommetts or dampeners of any kind is a bad idea for the mounting bolts or plates. Think about it, your actually giving it more of the ability for movement and vibration. But I could be wrong...
 
#4
Ive read some of the same stuff. But every car has rubber/synthetic motor mounts. I pulled the rubber gromets on my Cobras rear end and went with solid metal washers and spacers for axle hop; i could feel the vibrations in my steering wheel.
Im getting a high buzzing feeling in my hands. After 5 mins or so. At a good throttle it makes me want to get off.
Just 4 bolts and some rubber grommets and ill report back.
No offense intended, but I think I remember reading rubber grommetts or dampeners of any kind is a bad idea for the mounting bolts or plates. Think about it, your actually giving it more of the ability for movement and vibration. But I could be wrong...
 
#5
Your engine plate flex is why the vibration is amplified but I didn't say that. One member now banned rode me like a rented mule about my theory but just take a step back and look how it's barely perched. I'm gusseting mine if I ever tear it down for paint and curing the problem, I'll gusset the middle outside and bridge the factory tube joint strengthening it all at once. I have three here me and the kids and none stock, the little engines shook like a junkie needing dope due to the plate flex and struggling to pull the thing and they run smooth if they run at all. I deduced that the plate was just improperly mounted on the cheap. Maybe I am wrong but I'm convinced.
 
#6
The motor is Mounted to the thin factory plate only. My son is in welding class at school. Should he weld a thicker plate to it,, or reinforce the factory plate??
Your engine plate flex is why the vibration is amplified but I didn't say that. One member now banned rode me like a rented mule about my theory but just take a step back and look how it's barely perched. I'm gusseting mine if I ever tear it down for paint and curing the problem, I'll gusset the middle outside and bridge the factory tube joint strengthening it all at once. I have three here me and the kids and none stock, the little engines shook like a junkie needing dope due to the plate flex and struggling to pull the thing and they run smooth if they run at all. I deduced that the plate was just improperly mounted on the cheap. Maybe I am wrong but I'm convinced.
 
#12
Reinforcing the plate is a sound additive-if you are looking to isolate the motor by rubber bushings you need to create a top end of the motor to frame mounting that is also rubber bushed so as to restirct the motor's top end movement---remember that the motor needs to move for and aft (chain adjustments) so your top mount will have to adjust as well. Four on the bottom and one on top will hold the motor inplace, with a re-inforced plate and bushings that would be a proper isolation job. Should be as smooth as silk on good pavement.
 
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