well now it wont start.
- Thread starter jayJams
- Start date
Looks like GPS is the cheapest bet for a new Tilly 212E - Hemi.
Around 250 shipped, & no tax,, at least in my neck of the woods.
I'd personally stick with the Tilly.
Other option is, if money's tight,, is that you could sell the Tilly/ GX-200 Billet flywheel, & the Tilly rod,, pick up a Predator,, & use the money from selling those Billet parts, to get Predator ones.
It would probably save you well over 100 bucks just doing that.
You could probably also return the rod anyways though.
My 2 cents..
Around 250 shipped, & no tax,, at least in my neck of the woods.
I'd personally stick with the Tilly.
Other option is, if money's tight,, is that you could sell the Tilly/ GX-200 Billet flywheel, & the Tilly rod,, pick up a Predator,, & use the money from selling those Billet parts, to get Predator ones.
It would probably save you well over 100 bucks just doing that.
You could probably also return the rod anyways though.
My 2 cents..
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There, I bought it, are you guys happy yet?
https://www.wish.com/search/vernier...cdfa187e?source=search&position=100&share=web
https://www.wish.com/search/vernier...cdfa187e?source=search&position=100&share=web
If you put the end of the cam in that hole, does it rattle around excessively?
The caliper is a good idea--you can measure the ID (inside diameter) at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock (or all the way around).
If the measurement is off as you go around (not consistent), well, there's your dinner.
The caliper is a good idea--you can measure the ID (inside diameter) at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock (or all the way around).
If the measurement is off as you go around (not consistent), well, there's your dinner.
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If you put the end of the cam in that hole, does it rattle around excessively?
The caliper is a good idea--you can measure the ID (inside diameter) at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock (or all the way around.
If the measurement is off as you go around (not consistent), well, there's your dinner.
The caliper is a good idea--you can measure the ID (inside diameter) at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock (or all the way around.
If the measurement is off as you go around (not consistent), well, there's your dinner.
After seeing pictures of the inside of your engine and knowing what has happened to it, I'm surprised it's not worse. When there's so much vibration that the side cover bolts fall out and loses all the oil, that's usually the end right there. I can't believe it lived only to have the rod cap come loose too. Man I would love to see this engine in person, if there's not aluminum burnt on any of the journals, I bet I could get it running again. I was the king of hand-me-downs when I was a teenager, loved it when someone would say "If you think you could fix it, it's yours!".
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The ONLY way to guarantee the condition of this engine is through visual inspection AND thorough measuring of all parts. A repair manual for your engine will give you all the crucial measurements and wear limits. You might be able to get away with vernier calipers if they are truly vernier (reads to .0001) if they are simple dial calipers (read to .001) they won't do. To measure and engine properly, I employ micrometers, telescoping bore gauges, dial bore indicator, and sometimes a vernier caliper, as well as feeler gauges. A throw it together and see what happens approach is what got you here in the first place. If you don't have the correct tools, take all the parts to a machine shop and have them measure for you. You may get lucky doing otherwise, but that's not a bet I would make.
Understand if you throw it all together and miss even 1 thing, like the cam boss is .001" too big, or the connecting rod journal is. 001" out of round or that crank was way too overheated, and you try to run it, it will be catastrophic in short order. So if you are a gambler, put it together and see what happens. but if it throws your brand new rod or that blued crank breaks at 5000 rpm and the motor grenades and takes your leg off then you will know you should have spent $120 for a new motor.
Understand if you throw it all together and miss even 1 thing, like the cam boss is .001" too big, or the connecting rod journal is. 001" out of round or that crank was way too overheated, and you try to run it, it will be catastrophic in short order. So if you are a gambler, put it together and see what happens. but if it throws your brand new rod or that blued crank breaks at 5000 rpm and the motor grenades and takes your leg off then you will know you should have spent $120 for a new motor.
True that but if he plans on doing it for a while, sometimes it's worth having the tools. When I was starting out, I would use some of the money I made from jobs just to buy the tools to do it so I would have them for the next one. I still believe that crank was factory hardened as it was a Tillotson engine, I think all Tillotson cranks are heat treated. As far as putting any more money into that engine, not a good idea but I wouldn't mind trying to get the old one going just for s#its and giggles. I had an old Toyota truck back in the day, paid $1,000 for it and drove it for a year without putting more than gas and oil in it, I put that truck through hell. One day it was running rough and making a lot of engine noise. I pulled the valve cover and one of the camshaft caps was broken and the cam journal on the head was heavily scored. To take it to a repair shop would have been $1,500. The truck wasn't worth $100 at this point so I wrapped the cam with cellophane tape (for oil clearance) and put JB weld on the scored cam journal, got a camshaft cap from the boneyard and once the JB Weld dried, I removed the cellophane tape from the cam torqued it all back down and away I went. I got 3 more months of driving out of that truck before it finally died, I didn't see what killed it and didn't really care, it worked. I'm definitely not a hack and normally wouldn't even bother putting something back into service after such repairs but if you could resurrect something for the cost of a gasket set, to me it would be worth the try, that is if the parts were at least visually inspected and deemed somewhat useable.
jayJams:
There's a lot of gloom and doom prospects over the state of your motor; that it is toast and beyond hope unless it receives major surgery. I'm not 100% convinced...
You could probably put it all back together and run it for a while in a low-stress application, like on a garden tiller, and it'll probably run for a while. Might last a few seasons too. Hell, put it all back together and run it on the bike like you stole it. It'd be a fitting coup de grâce when the rod lets go.
I read the story like everyone else but the scant few photos he provided don't really match the catastrophic failure story. The "smoking gun" photo of the cam bearing is rather ambiguous; too much camera flash or glare. The story is a bit more astonishing than the pics.
I wanted to see pics of the rod, the piston, the bearing surface of the crank journal, the cylinder and whole assembly splayed out on a work bench.
There's a lot of gloom and doom prospects over the state of your motor; that it is toast and beyond hope unless it receives major surgery. I'm not 100% convinced...
You could probably put it all back together and run it for a while in a low-stress application, like on a garden tiller, and it'll probably run for a while. Might last a few seasons too. Hell, put it all back together and run it on the bike like you stole it. It'd be a fitting coup de grâce when the rod lets go.
I read the story like everyone else but the scant few photos he provided don't really match the catastrophic failure story. The "smoking gun" photo of the cam bearing is rather ambiguous; too much camera flash or glare. The story is a bit more astonishing than the pics.
I wanted to see pics of the rod, the piston, the bearing surface of the crank journal, the cylinder and whole assembly splayed out on a work bench.