Whats the max angle I can set my clone up with??

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#1
Ok I have decided pretty much that I'm gonna set my bike up with a TAV2 but in order to get the diven to clear the frame I'll have to tilt the engine up at the rear, just some rough guessing I'm looking at 10, maybe 15 degrees at the most..... I've seen kart mounts at 15 degrees but is there anything special that needs to be done to assure proper oiling?? just a little extra oil in the crankcase I'm assuming??

The engine is built fairly stout (.080 milled and ported head, flat top, .010 head gasket, SS valves, 26lb springs, locks, retainers, ARC rod with built in oil scoop, ARC billet flywheel, 285 lift, 250 duration cam, 6 degree key, chromolly push rods, 24mm mikuni flatslide)

I know the tav2 is rated to 8hp which will be under the output of this engine but since it's gonna be mostly a rider and not strictly a drag bike I figured I'd give the tav a shot, worse case senerio it burns the belt and if so I can pull it off and go with a different clutch... If I set the engine plate up flat I can't go from a bell or disc clutch to the tav but I can go back the other way with the mount angled..
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#2
You can tilt it up to about 30 degrees safely. It's all about having enough oil in it so your dipper can sling it. I have ran 8 and 15 degree angle plates before.
 
#3
To get the TAV to clear my frame I got a piece of 1 1/2" plate aluminum (at local metal supply cost like $25.), and just raised the whole motor up.. Worked well and kept it level.
 
#4
I also used a plate this time around. But I did have a clone on my CAT R4005 for a bit and it probably had a 15 degree mount, pretty much like a rupp. Only thing I did special was cut the animal spacer and weld it so the Mikuni carb was actually straight not rotated.
 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#5
You can tilt it up to about 30 degrees safely. It's all about having enough oil in it so your dipper can sling it. I have ran 8 and 15 degree angle plates before.
Cool, I think 10 degrees will be sufficent to get the clearance I need...
To get the TAV to clear my frame I got a piece of 1 1/2" plate aluminum (at local metal supply cost like $25.), and just raised the whole motor up.. Worked well and kept it level.
I have to weld on a new plate since I drastically altered the frame so setting the plate up on an angle isn't a big issue at this point... a spacer is definately an idea if I build another bike and run into the same senerio...

I also used a plate this time around. But I did have a clone on my CAT R4005 for a bit and it probably had a 15 degree mount, pretty much like a rupp. Only thing I did special was cut the animal spacer and weld it so the Mikuni carb was actually straight not rotated.
I'm running a spigot mount flatslide so carb angle isn't a problem, I can turn it any which way as needed..... I had to notch the bottom of the alum plate to clear the cross bar for the engine plate and looks like I'll have to trim about 1/4" off the side of the engine plate so I can slide the engine over just a tad to get the mounting holes lined up... I thought about trimming off the bottom of the tav plate but I dont wanna take too much off for strength reasons so trimming the engine plate will probably be the best solution..
 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#7
Why not raise the mount then and keep the carb level? If you ever change engines it's easier to have it level anyway.
I have the mount tacked in place now, I didn't give it any thought about changing the carb :doah: well, if it comes down to that I'll just have to make another intake with the correct angle for the carb, fortunately with a spigot mount carb like the flatslide I have it can be adjusted at the connector to compensate for the angle... Good thought, I was thinking that far down the road....
 
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