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I think you're right about the forks being made solid, the BC1000 bars were straight and I've only seen the flat axle flanges too. It's definitely been messed with but not too far gone, are you gonna save it?

143.615072 = H50-65316H I think that would be a 1981, not sure though.

Pretty sure the C prefix foil stickers were used on the 1970 models, maybe a few 1971s. Somebody check me on that, my research/knowledge is mostly on pre 70 models.

Yes, follow above, not me, I was wrong to say ground! Sorry for any confusion, I was incorrectly mixing up my practical knowledge with the book color key, my last wiring job was a DC alt/coil to a battery system.

I do believe the wire color code diagram (bottom) is used for every alternator on the page as a key, note that all colors described aren't on every alt diagram. I gotta go check my pile of alts, I might of been thinking of a DC or older AC unit with a brown (-).

Yes it is AC, never said otherwise, technically, but not the point of the thread. Green is still the ignition kill, black is still ground or (-) and red is still power/hot or (+).

The green wire should be your ignition kill switch wire, the black and red are the power outputs (- and +).

Nothing with more detail but I had a couple conversations that gave me a rough idea of what would have been on my frames at least.

Best of all it's a "Swingster"!

Rare find...the Briggs engine is not factory.

Your research is good, 1966 Continental, well bought!

Forks are from something else but the rest was a Bonanza, engine is a Briggs with JD decals.

Same here. Reminds me of scrolling through FB groups with random topics, I'm only there for the classifieds.

Sears Drover or Puncher...the forks were sprung on the latter.

Meant to say, I'm using MS Edge on the PC, Samsung Internet on the tablet, must be related to browser being used.

I don't get the confusion, just use the "Attach files" button? It's the same on my PC or tablet view, same as the forums.

You will go Super Broke on a nice set though.

Use the search feature. I remember at least one @jeep2003 built.

A dry clutch bushing can cause vibration or shudder too.

It doesn't take aggressive media to remove the factory paint, the surface finish state the media leaves the aluminum with is the best answer if you're going to re-paint.