Copper colored engine paint for a Briggs?
BAB came by the shop today with an original copper colored Briggs. Here are side by side picks to compare the Rustoleum engine paint in "aged copper" to the original Briggs copper.
Not perfect, but pretty close! :thumbsup:
Not perfect, but pretty close! :thumbsup:
Permit me to bring this gangrenous thread back to life a bit...
I have yet to see any color samples of anything painted in Krylon K01609000, which is a High Heat Max Special Purpose Aerosol, Copper.
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01609000-Special-Purpose-Aerosol/dp/B00GXHXKJ2
Nor this one; Thermo-Tec Hi-Heat Coating, Copper. This is intended for coating exhaust wrap but can also be used as a paint for regular metal surfaces...COOL-IT Thermo-Tec – Hi-Heat Coating
I think the latter one is definitely going to be the gas and oil resistant winner but I still have no experience with either. Anyone got a link to either paint in use or better yet, first hand experience?
Many thanks.
I have yet to see any color samples of anything painted in Krylon K01609000, which is a High Heat Max Special Purpose Aerosol, Copper.
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01609000-Special-Purpose-Aerosol/dp/B00GXHXKJ2
Nor this one; Thermo-Tec Hi-Heat Coating, Copper. This is intended for coating exhaust wrap but can also be used as a paint for regular metal surfaces...COOL-IT Thermo-Tec – Hi-Heat Coating
I think the latter one is definitely going to be the gas and oil resistant winner but I still have no experience with either. Anyone got a link to either paint in use or better yet, first hand experience?
Many thanks.
You do not require high temperature paint on your engine. You do however, require something better than fuel and oil resistant. "Resistant" means it takes six minutes to wash the paint off after a fuel spill instead of five minutes.
Check VHT copper engine paint. Folks have said it's close. Personally, I had a color match done at my paint shop in an automotive paint- acrylic enamel. Once you shoot it with the copper, take your chances, or do it right and hit it with a $20 can of urethane clear from Eastwood, etc. It automatically mixes the urethane base with the catalyst, and provides a very clear, smooth, fuel "proof" protection.
Other information on other Briggs colors was post in this thread. No one ever posted a copper code. The thing about the copper, is that it changes hue from the original coat at a high degree, fairly quickly. That's why it's so hard to match.
Check VHT copper engine paint. Folks have said it's close. Personally, I had a color match done at my paint shop in an automotive paint- acrylic enamel. Once you shoot it with the copper, take your chances, or do it right and hit it with a $20 can of urethane clear from Eastwood, etc. It automatically mixes the urethane base with the catalyst, and provides a very clear, smooth, fuel "proof" protection.
Other information on other Briggs colors was post in this thread. No one ever posted a copper code. The thing about the copper, is that it changes hue from the original coat at a high degree, fairly quickly. That's why it's so hard to match.
Very hard to post a color as all paint manufacturers use different codes I'd say bring it to me and I could match it or bring it to a good paint distributor and let them match it for you and not a chance in hell will you find that dead on in a rattle can do the real deal base clear unless they have a single stage bank and a killer color guy.
You know, I've never heard someone say definitively that there's no need for high temperature paint...all the while I've cultivated this fear that as soon as my engine refurb project is fired up and is allowed to reach operating temperature--the paint going to bubble up and flake off.
More than a few people seem to be happy with something that's close in shade and hue to the original copper paint but don't require a perfect match. That describes me I guess.
Just fleshing out the available rattle can (poor man's) options here.
More than a few people seem to be happy with something that's close in shade and hue to the original copper paint but don't require a perfect match. That describes me I guess.
Just fleshing out the available rattle can (poor man's) options here.
I've used cheap ACE rattle can on engines, several of them, and then followed it up with a quality clear urethane top coat. (automotive) "I" have not had a problem. However recently a member who had been doing that as well, did experience a problem, and he too had done several.
You need the clear coat (quality) especially on a Briggs with a pulsa-jet set up, because the fuel quickly eats the paint.
I've switched over to using an automotive coating exclusively. I use an inexpensive acrylic enamel, but I have also used urethane. These paints hold up to fuel and heat as well, and do not require a top coat.
If you use the VHT, then clear it, you will be good to go, provided the prep work is solid as always.
Lastly, the copper Briggs were sold as industrial engine replacements at hardware stores, which is why the engines used on bikes tended to be the copper ones. The branded machines sold with Briggs were usually spec'd with the other Briggs colors. I cant take credit for that knowledge, as it was discussed here some years ago.
You might drop a PM to Chatten63 or Markus and ask them what they think, as both have extensive experience testing and painting a variety of small air cooled engines.
A word about using a spectrometer on metallic- they don't always accurately pick up the correct hue due to the pearl/flake and give a false paint code. What I did for the bike below was to go to Napa and flip through their NASON chart and find a copper. As I recall, it was from their Fleet chart, and my attempt at making an engine look stock, and old.
You need the clear coat (quality) especially on a Briggs with a pulsa-jet set up, because the fuel quickly eats the paint.
I've switched over to using an automotive coating exclusively. I use an inexpensive acrylic enamel, but I have also used urethane. These paints hold up to fuel and heat as well, and do not require a top coat.
If you use the VHT, then clear it, you will be good to go, provided the prep work is solid as always.
Lastly, the copper Briggs were sold as industrial engine replacements at hardware stores, which is why the engines used on bikes tended to be the copper ones. The branded machines sold with Briggs were usually spec'd with the other Briggs colors. I cant take credit for that knowledge, as it was discussed here some years ago.
You might drop a PM to Chatten63 or Markus and ask them what they think, as both have extensive experience testing and painting a variety of small air cooled engines.
A word about using a spectrometer on metallic- they don't always accurately pick up the correct hue due to the pearl/flake and give a false paint code. What I did for the bike below was to go to Napa and flip through their NASON chart and find a copper. As I recall, it was from their Fleet chart, and my attempt at making an engine look stock, and old.