Heald VT-3 Help Fixing Front Fender
Thanks guys.
First, thank you Rick. I was very much going to run a bead to fix it. Some people here suggested brazing also but I think a strip underneath would be the most permanent. The heads up that welding won't work in the long run stops me from making that mistake.
Delray and Chrisr, I had thought about this and at first was just going to run a bead. Monday I will go down to the metal store and get an appropriate piece of stock. I might as well do this once and do it right. Thank you both for sending me in the right direction. Also, at this point I don't think this will affect the originality by those who see it as you say. Better as more permanent fix. Thank you both.
Doc
First, thank you Rick. I was very much going to run a bead to fix it. Some people here suggested brazing also but I think a strip underneath would be the most permanent. The heads up that welding won't work in the long run stops me from making that mistake.
Delray and Chrisr, I had thought about this and at first was just going to run a bead. Monday I will go down to the metal store and get an appropriate piece of stock. I might as well do this once and do it right. Thank you both for sending me in the right direction. Also, at this point I don't think this will affect the originality by those who see it as you say. Better as more permanent fix. Thank you both.
Doc
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The reason they recrack is because the weld doesn't penetrate the back wall of the crack. The stress fracture remains until you drill a tiny hole at the end of the crack. This is an old aviation trick called "stop drilling." Then you can run a bead, and fill the hole.
Depending on your plater, sometimes it is better to leave minor repairs alone and let the guys there fix it. I've done that with a Cat fender and never even saw a price increase. It's their bread and butter. Again, depends on your plater, but it's the route I take sometimes.
Depending on your plater, sometimes it is better to leave minor repairs alone and let the guys there fix it. I've done that with a Cat fender and never even saw a price increase. It's their bread and butter. Again, depends on your plater, but it's the route I take sometimes.
The fenders I had replated were welded on both sides and the chrome shop did the work. Now I don't know if they drilled a hole at both ends of the crack or not. A lot of the problem with the healds is that the mounting bracket is flat and the fenders are curved. Maybe a rubber washer in between fender and mount would help.
I am having the exact same issue right now with a Tote Gote front fender. Round fender, square mount, plus an extra hole for (unused) brake cable. I was considering an angled spacer welded to the fender. A metal strap works, but we end up with skewed mount bolts that can only mean trouble.
O-rings work, but they deform quickly. Maybe paper gasket? I dunno. I'll have to deal with all of this very shortly as well. The stop drill method does work, but it will not compensate for the mounting issues we face.
O-rings work, but they deform quickly. Maybe paper gasket? I dunno. I'll have to deal with all of this very shortly as well. The stop drill method does work, but it will not compensate for the mounting issues we face.
IMO, everything is better with a TIG machine. I don't have one, but I do use .024 on a MIG with gas. Seems to work well for the thin stuff. (On the aircraft, you stop drilled so the crack in the aluminum would stop creeping until such time as you could get the entire panel replaced at a depot-level facility)
Something I was thinking on my fenders- the same as doc is dealing with, except that the fenders are recessed on the sides to fit around the fork uppers. Cutting out the curved mounting area using the bottom tree as a guide, then weld in a flat piece in the same shape.
It would make the chromed fender sit within the newly painted forks as some sort of a nesting, molded design better than original, and would mount more securely. Down side is the fender is no longer original.
Sorry for the diversion here- just something I too am once again dealing with- as the build off deadline ticks away, so does my window of opportunity to do the right fabrication work and still have time for the chrome shop.
Something I was thinking on my fenders- the same as doc is dealing with, except that the fenders are recessed on the sides to fit around the fork uppers. Cutting out the curved mounting area using the bottom tree as a guide, then weld in a flat piece in the same shape.
It would make the chromed fender sit within the newly painted forks as some sort of a nesting, molded design better than original, and would mount more securely. Down side is the fender is no longer original.
Sorry for the diversion here- just something I too am once again dealing with- as the build off deadline ticks away, so does my window of opportunity to do the right fabrication work and still have time for the chrome shop.