Hemi Head Predator Build (60363)

Norcalputput

Norcalputput

Member
#21
#21
OND said:
Hey Barry, probably going to cc the combustion chamber with the head still on ..thinking it will be around 29 to 31 cc's total. I'm hoping to bring the cc's down to atleast 26 maybe 25 cc's.. If I'm lucky..and with no milling unless I have to. Going from a .041 thick head gasket to a .010 thick gasket, rod is .020 longer. But flatmilling is not out of the equation yet.



27mm stainless Int. valve and 25mm stainless Exh. valve, aluminum retainers and keepers came in today.
Click to expand...
IMO Pulling the head and taking measurements of everything
That way you can complete your build on paper before ever install a part



Sent from my iPhone using Mores code
 
OND

OND

#26
#26
stargazer7467 said:
are you using those valve with stock seats? Im asking becasue id love to do some head mods to my hemi but dont see anyone really offer modded heads for the hemi.
Click to expand...
Hey stargazer, yes I'm planning on using these seats with the stainless valves...I might get my buddy who owns an automotive machine shop to do a 3 angle valve job and the way its looking right now maybe some flat milling.:grind:
 
OND

OND

#31
#31
Good info Prowler ! Russell at NR has some top notch parts for Honda / Clone / Predators.

All right getting back to the tare down on this Hemi Predator. I've got a some work to do getting it apart and getting it cleaned up ready for reassembly...and alot of use less parts to get out of this engine, as far as governed parts and some holes to plug up.



Govenor lever and shaft at the top of pic and low oil presure switch and wiring at the front and Inside of the engine






All these parts need to be removed as they will no longer be used. Before Pic.

 
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OND

OND

#33
#33
Now ready to plug up some holes...this is the way I do it, but there are alot of different ways to plug up the holes. Alot of people just cut the wires off and leave it at that.

I tap and plug the front hole with a screw in pipe plug..1/4-18 NPT..and this is the tap that I use.





Two or three drops of red locktite and a snug fit, and its in.


Govenor shaft hole is tapped with a 1/4-20 set screw and locktited in with red locktite.



1/2 long 1/4-20 set screw is screwed in flush.
 
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OND

OND

#34
#34
One last thing to do before clean up and reassembly is to drill out this tiny hole between the lifters holes, I'm drilling it out to 3/16 ..the rod dipper actually slings oil into the upper lifter/valve train area thru this little hole. (note this is just what I do and is not necessary)



Before ^^ and after pics



Block is stripped, plugged and clean ..ready to reassemble.

 
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OND

OND

#39
#39
Prowler08 said:
Depending on your build the governor hole makes a great place to help vent the block!!!
Click to expand...
You are right prowler it is a good place for crank case ventilation...I'm only planning on turning this engine around 6000 rpm's tho. :wink:

Also wanted to tell you DIY guys and gals I stopped by the local car wash and used the spray wand on hot soap water only on the block and side cover, but becareful around the two rubber side seals . Parts washers are great but alot of builders will tell you that hot soapy water is the best clean.
 
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OND

OND

#40
#40
Thanks JD, I like it to look good for pics...but it probably won't stay that way for long ! :laugh:

Block is ready for this build, so I need to get the crank cleaned up and also check the clearance between the rod/ (bearings) and crank. I like .003 clearance



Before crank pic. ^^^

After Pic.




Polished it with a 1000 grit emery cloth from my local parts store, it comes in 1" wide strips as long as you want it to be. I bought a couple of feet. (rod journal only)

New ARC rod....man this is one beautiful piece of work... taken apart and rod inserts ( bearings) installed , and ready to plastigauge.



Torque on this rod is 150 in. lbs. with moly lube or what I'm using is 30 weight motor oil on the rod bolts torque at 170 in. lbs.

One good way to check for clearance between the rod and crank is plastigage, I bought it at my local parts store.



Plastigage is like a fine piece of thread, just lay it across the rod jounal of the crank and put the rod together and torque it down.



Before pic ^^^^



When you take the rod cap back off this is about what you'll see.. Hopefully!! I've got .002 to .003 clearance.
 
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