Hemi Head Predator Build (60363)

#42
Ready to swap over the piston to the new ARC rod, remember the triangle/ arrow on the piston is always on the bottom or pointing towards the lifters.





I always position my two compression rings at 12 and 6 as in this pic. Not saying this is the way everyone else does it ! JMO



Rod bolts in oil, and ready to Install the piston / rod.



Oil on rod bearing and threaded holes in rod.
 
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#43
I'm really proud of this lttle tool...my hi-tech ring installation tool.:shrug:



With a little bit of pressure on top of the piston ..very easily start pushing in on the first ring all the way around, until it disappers in the hole..then to the next ring.




With the upper bearing still in the rod..push the piston down and guide the rod over the rod jounal on the crankshaft. Oil up the lower bearing thats in the rod cap and install it to the rod with the oil soaked rod bolts, and now you are ready to torque this rod down.



Remember 150 inch pounds with moly lube ...or 170 inch pounds with 30 weight engine oil .
 
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#44
Next up the lifters, this is to easy...oil'em up and slide in .:hammer:



Lifters installed and ready for cam, and make sure both lifters are still there when you install the cam.



They seem to disappear !!! :laugh:
 
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#47
Lifters are still in and the Isky (Black Mamba Junior) cam is installed and aligned. Dot to Dot !



Install both alignment or dowel pins in engine block.



Side cover is ready to install and torque down.
Torque on side cover bolts is 17 ft lbs with bolts dipped in 30 weight engine oil.



Also checked the hemi side cover gasket against a clone side cover gasket and they are the same.




Using the stock uncut key the flwheel is next to go on. ( This flywheel is a 2014 ARC with 32 degrees of timing built in )
Flywheel nut torques at 54 ft lbs.

 
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#48
:doah: Question and Answer Time. :doah:

OK no piston pop out ...but piston is flush with the block, If I was building a open engine this would be fine with me, but I'm not. This engines combustion chamber did cc out at 30 cc's and I'm wanting to get it down to 25 cc's. I was going to use a .010 thick head gasket off of a clone engine instead of the stock .041 thick gasket, this would have taken the cc's down to about 26 to 25 cc's with the .020 longer ARC rod that I used.
...............................What would you do ???



Remember the Predator piston is bigger in diameter than the Clone piston.
 
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#49
i never considered using the +.20" rod during my build, the piston already looked flush, but i suppose i wasnt looking close enough. I just bought the robertson torque tube loop header, well see how it performs since i have most of the same mods (other than head).
 
#54
Buy a copper head gasket so you maintain your piston to head clearance min .030"
And check your piston to valve clearance with some clay
Min .080"in .100"ex
+ .030" for the aluminum rod
http://www.racingheadservice.com/docs/rhs/16000IS.pdf


Sent from my iPhone using Mores code
 
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#56
Thanks for the Input guys ! Also some good advice. :thumbsup:

OK... so I've got the short block built with no piston pop out, but nothing in the hole either...and I'm ok with that. I could buy another ARC rod ..stock lenghth , I could use a copper head gasket...I'm kinda like youngengines my past experiences with copper headgaskets hasn't been to good...and this engine will be run constantly
With that being said the head is already at the machine shop to get it milled .030 and a 45 degree back cut done on the valves.
Headgasket is ordered .041 thick stock predator fire ring gasket.
 
#57
Another option (and one I like to do) is to stack the stock thin metal gaskets.. You could put three (I copper coat each one). I actually have done it several times, with great results.
 
#58
Another option (and one I like to do) is to stack the stock thin metal gaskets.. You could put three (I copper coat each one). I actually have done it several times, with great results.
Another great Idea Barry ! I've done this alot in kart racing and also had good luck with it ....mostly in the CL-Lite class to get the cc's to or above the rules of 26 cc's minum ,..I usally shot for 26 3/4 to 27 cc's hoping to be legal at tech time.

Well my buddy from the machine shop called today and said the head was ready ...so I went and picked it up. His mill with the diamond tip cutter does a mirror like finish, head looked great.





Head flatmilled .030 ...headgasket should be tomorrow.
 
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#60
Another great Idea Barry ! I've done this alot in kart racing and also had good luck with it ....mostly in the CL-Lite class to get the cc's to or above the rules of 26 cc's minum ,..I usally shot for 26 3/4 to 27 cc's hoping to be legal at tech time.

Well my buddy from the machine shop called today and said the head was ready ...so I went and picked it up. His mill with the diamond tip cutter does a mirror like finish, head looked great.





Head flatmilled .030 ...headgasket should be tomorrow.
Such thing as TOO SMOOTH.....
I prefer to see some marks or forsting from surface prep for better grip on the gasket
 
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