Max Torque Clutch Sprocket Change

[poorboy]

I've got an almost new MT centrifigual clutch. Problem is it came off another project that uses a #40 series chain and I need #35.

Question. How do you remove the sprocket and bushing from the clutch casing?

Can I simply order a rebuild kit with new bushing and sprocket for a #35 chain?

If yes, then for added low end power I would go with a smaller drive sprocket say 11 vs. 12 tooth correct?:shrug:

This is a 3/4" bore going onto a tappered shaft.

 

[vwfan79]

There is a snap ring tha hold it together remove that then there is another one inside you should be able to order a new #35 sprocket and a bushing. The bushing you will have to drive out. Yes going small will increase torque, but will also take away from top end.

 

[Harleys Papa]

This is a 3/4" bore going onto a tappered shaft.

Wont work on a tappered shaft :doah:

 

[jeep2003]

i dont think you can change the sprockets. look at the way it goes into the bell its the same pattern as the gear. It will be the same way on a #35 bell

 

[vwfan79]

Wont work on a tappered shaft :doah:

I guess I missed the tapered shaft part, woops.

 

[poorboy]

Why won't it work on a tapered shaft?

The tapper doesnt start until well past the keyway. What kind of clutch would you use?

Maybe my idea of a tappered shaft and yours are different...mine likely being wrong:facepalm:

 

[125ccCrazy]

Why won't it work on a tapered shaft?

The tapper doesnt start until well past the keyway. What kind of clutch would you use?

Maybe my idea of a tappered shaft and yours are different...mine likely being wrong:facepalm:

generally there isn't enough straight section of shaft to properly support a clutch on a tapered crank..... There are no clutches made specifically for tapered cranks...

 

[jeep2003]

show a picture. it needs the 2 1/4" to fully support the clutch. if your handy enough you can file down the shaft while its running.

 

[poorboy]

This shaft actually tappers in toward the case and then come back to a ful 3/4" bore.

This is just a standard 80212 3hp briggs that came originally on the Atlas from around 1960 The old clutch that's coming off is just rusty as all getout and doesn't have set screws to keep it from moving all over the shaft.

I guess I could use a bolt and washer on the end of the crank to keep it from running off the shaft. I could then use a bronze bushing behind the clutch to take up the 1/2" of space between the clutch bushing and case/oil seal