my official can you teach me how to paint post
a few things that I've learned will help you get started, but I'm sure others will chime in.
First off, prep work is key. It may only take you 5 minutes to actually paint the bike, but you could spend days prepping it before hand. Clear off all the old paint and patch anywhere on the frame that has imperfections. A lot of factory welds are spotty and get little pocks around them. I always clean those up while I'm at it.
Once you've cleared the old paint and patched the imperfections, use a high-grit sand paper to make sure it's nice and smooth. Any rough patches will show through paint. Then clean the metal with an evaporating solution like rubbing alcohol. I've used paint thinner before with no ill effects, but rubbing alcohol is cheaper and easier on your skin (and nose). Once the metal is cleaned, don't touch it with your bare hands.
Be sure your paint booth, or the area you're using is out of direct sunlight. The direct sunlight causes the paint to dry too fast and you end up with what almost looks like dust on the surface of your paint. The overspray dries before it hits the surface and sticks to the wet paint. You'll end up having to do another coat to fix it.
Be sure the area you're painting in is dust and breeze free. I had a small gnat land on my gas tank while painting it and it left an awful spot. Part of it was because I tried to remove it with my finger, leaving a smudge in the paint. I ended up sanding that spot down and painted it again.
The only other piece of advice I can give is that several light coats are sometimes easier than 1-2 heavy coats. While it might save you time, you increase your chances of getting a run in the paint or having orange peel effect in the paint when it dries. Sometimes, you can chase the runs if you take your time and correct them without sanding and repainting.
Good luck
First off, prep work is key. It may only take you 5 minutes to actually paint the bike, but you could spend days prepping it before hand. Clear off all the old paint and patch anywhere on the frame that has imperfections. A lot of factory welds are spotty and get little pocks around them. I always clean those up while I'm at it.
Once you've cleared the old paint and patched the imperfections, use a high-grit sand paper to make sure it's nice and smooth. Any rough patches will show through paint. Then clean the metal with an evaporating solution like rubbing alcohol. I've used paint thinner before with no ill effects, but rubbing alcohol is cheaper and easier on your skin (and nose). Once the metal is cleaned, don't touch it with your bare hands.
Be sure your paint booth, or the area you're using is out of direct sunlight. The direct sunlight causes the paint to dry too fast and you end up with what almost looks like dust on the surface of your paint. The overspray dries before it hits the surface and sticks to the wet paint. You'll end up having to do another coat to fix it.
Be sure the area you're painting in is dust and breeze free. I had a small gnat land on my gas tank while painting it and it left an awful spot. Part of it was because I tried to remove it with my finger, leaving a smudge in the paint. I ended up sanding that spot down and painted it again.
The only other piece of advice I can give is that several light coats are sometimes easier than 1-2 heavy coats. While it might save you time, you increase your chances of getting a run in the paint or having orange peel effect in the paint when it dries. Sometimes, you can chase the runs if you take your time and correct them without sanding and repainting.
Good luck
Yeah, I had that issue here. There were several shops around that wanted north of $250 to just coat a bare metal frame (and I was supplying the powder). I ended up shipping it out to have it done. Even after shipping both ways, I'm still saving money. I hear lots of guys on here saying they get it done for $75-100 locally. I haven't found anyone within 30-45 minutes of me willing to do it for that low.
if your not experienced with painting I would not suggest trying a candy job for the first time out...candy is a tri stage process and if you want flake it is now a 4 stage job that will require several coats of good clear (not rattle can) to achieve a smooth deep finish.. but if your set on this and rattle can is your only option I'd use a red Duplicolor Metal Specs base followed with Duplicolor metalcast red....assuming you want candy red...if you want blue use the blue metal specs base, green/green...it's a lot easier to get good coverage going over a similar color base....when using a spraygun silver base can be tinted with the top color for easier coverage. with the paint shown below plus primer you can do it under $60.
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I've rattle canned quite a few , as Capgun said prep is key , bare metal , bondo as needed , self etching primer then sand , then filler primer then sand , then base coat ( 3-5 coats ) sanding all the while , then several clear coats ! do the math , add it up to do it right and for only a little more you can powder coat ! if you want it to pop , spend the cheeze and powder coat it !!