Rattle can painting and clear coat.
If you clear about 5 - 10 min after painting, you will not have a problem.
If you need to let it set, then wait a week. Spray a very light coat, let it do its thing, then spray your good coat. I prefer Acrylic clear coat.
Anyone use Zinc Chromate primer on your frames ?
Nasty stuff, wear a breather.
If you need to let it set, then wait a week. Spray a very light coat, let it do its thing, then spray your good coat. I prefer Acrylic clear coat.
Anyone use Zinc Chromate primer on your frames ?
Nasty stuff, wear a breather.
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Even bead blasting does not IMO clean the metal enough, especially if the cabinet has had any contamination and it's not hard to get some BS in your medium if you reuse it. I use a prep-all or pre-kleano product to wipe down bare metal and give it time to flash away before priming. A self etching primer is what I like to use to insure a good bond to the metal. As far as clear goes you need to try to use products made to work together, temperature and humidity are factors in curing so make damn sure the base coat is dry before laying down the clear coat. That said I'm no pro painter but have painted cars and motorcycles, and I have screwed up enough for the both of us by not prepping the surfaces. There are some good tutorials on painting all over the web, Youtube has a few.
After blasting or sanding I use acetone to clean the frame , then at least 2 coats of self-etching primer , 2-3 coats of filler-primer , I like the Dupli-Color products . Then a light sanding and paint ready , most clear coats need to be applied 30 min after final coat of paint , and products do need to be compatible , I like the Lacquer paint and clear , have also painted 3 bikes with paint from a company called Auto-Motive touch Up , It's great stuff $20 bucks a can and it's urethane based , and you can use the lacquer clear w/it , they have all the cool Mopar colors that Dupli-Color doesnt have , sublime , plumcrazy , etc. !
I have had good results with Plasti Kote , I use a couple of coats of primer, wet sand with 400 & 600. I always warm the metal with a torch before painting, unless it is really hot outside And I lay the clear right on top of wet paint. I am not patient enough to wait a couple of days for the enamel to cure
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The other type of primer is "high build" its good for filling scratchs :thumbsup: Clean the parts with acetone :thumbsup: Spraying in high humidity isn't good either :doah: I have had clear milk on me in high humidity :crying: and mixing brands of paint and clear doesn't work well either, I like Duplicolor high temp primer paint and clear :thumbsup:
This is my build off bike. I wont comment to much on the knoweledge or skill of painting (because it's limited) or give advice. But I will tell you what I used for comparison. The blue was just Krylon deep blue from Walmart $3.50 11oz can I got 2 cans and it covered very nice, I did every thing on the bike with one can (2 coats) I was supprised how far it went. The silver is also Krylon and coats well too but is not as smooth and shiney as I would like. (was hoping for more of a gloss/chrome look ) like on the cap of the can. What impressed me most was the Paint I used on the plastic tank. I'm not a big fan of painting plastic because it usually doesnt hold up well or look like polished plastic. However this turned out like a brand new bright polished plastic tank using only the paint (no clear coat). The paint (wich is the same black that I used on the motor) was Rust - Olem High temp engine enamel gloss black. ($7.85 a can at walmart) (oil and gas resistant) I'll post close up's of the tank later, but I would highly recomend this for plastic jobs. It dries smooth and shiney. and I did not prep the tank with any thing other than cleaning it with soap and water. The blue and silver metal parts were all bead blasted and dry wiped clean befor paint. I did paint them in open air on a warm sunny day (low humidity) I clear coated the silver stuff but not the Blue. Usually I prime every thing but This time I did not, the paint is supposed to be one step paint so I thought I would try it. It turned out pretty good. no runs,no wrinkling. So for low cost DIY paint jobs I would deffinately recomend these paint products.
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Ed "Big Daddy" Roth's son is selling base, pearls,candies and flakes out of a rattle can along with dry flakes. I've only used the dry flakes but if I didn't have my compressor and spray guns it would be an option to consider. Here are a couple videos showing them using some of their products..
Roth Academy Episode 1: Rattlebomb Basics - YouTube
Roth Academy Episode 2: La Musica - YouTube
The clear that they show saved my butt before., my compressor stopped working and I needed to clear a couple of motorcycle helmets that day..
Roth Academy Episode 1: Rattlebomb Basics - YouTube
Roth Academy Episode 2: La Musica - YouTube
The clear that they show saved my butt before., my compressor stopped working and I needed to clear a couple of motorcycle helmets that day..
What a great idea on the 2 part clear. For sure whats been missing from the market of spray can painting.
Also heavy flaking, light flake in auto paint color has been around for sometime. But heavy flake usually had to be done with a spray gun.
Roth is on the right track, for a Kustom look at a smaller price and skill. :thumbsup:
Thanks Dan E Boy for the heads up
Also heavy flaking, light flake in auto paint color has been around for sometime. But heavy flake usually had to be done with a spray gun.
Roth is on the right track, for a Kustom look at a smaller price and skill. :thumbsup:
Thanks Dan E Boy for the heads up
The Auto-Motive touch up Brand is automotive paint w/every color
known to man kind , I use it simply cause I haven't bought a spray rig and it really produces a high quality finish , IMO .This is the Dodge Plum Crazy !
I just used a can of their Custard Pie (gold flake). I wanted slightly larger flake, 008, but for a small project like I had, I couldn't justify getting a larger 2.1 gun tip, and I really didn't want to go through the hassle.
The rattle bomb worked great. Mixed well, shot well, no tiger stripe. Exactly what the Dr ordered, and cost me around 30 bucks including shipping.
I shot 7 coats of this stuff on a gloss and scuffed base coat of black rattle bomb. The next step will be 3 coats of urethane clear.
Nothing special, but what an easy way to get the job done. I highly recommend it.
The rattle bomb worked great. Mixed well, shot well, no tiger stripe. Exactly what the Dr ordered, and cost me around 30 bucks including shipping.
I shot 7 coats of this stuff on a gloss and scuffed base coat of black rattle bomb. The next step will be 3 coats of urethane clear.
Nothing special, but what an easy way to get the job done. I highly recommend it.