Rupp Hustler 1972 Restoration
- Thread starter Runninlate
- Start date
- Tags 1972 hustler restoration rupp
Thanks!!! this is the fun part of the project. It's always a treat working with finished minibike parts.
Here's before pictures of the frame set. The parts were de-greased and deep scratches were filed and sanded including any spatter from the factory welds.
The swing arm bushings were removed from the swing arm being that they would not hold up to the high temperatures of the curing ovens used for powder coating. The strut bushings were also removed from the triple tree as were the jackshaft and head bearings.
The swing arm bushings were removed by a machine shop, they pushed right out on a press. I was told that I could have used a C-Clamp, sockets and a lump hammer but decided to use this method to re-install the bushings.
Rupp Hustler Frame Set - Before
Ready for powder coating, finish will be high gloss black.
Rupp Hustler Frame Set - Before
The seat pan was in sad shape, too much much time outside = mucho moisture and the seat foam acts like a wet sponge. There were some rust thru spots and uneven surface. the holes and rough spots were repaired with a brazing rod and later ground and sanded.
Rupp Hustler Seat Pan - Before
Here's before pictures of the frame set. The parts were de-greased and deep scratches were filed and sanded including any spatter from the factory welds.
The swing arm bushings were removed from the swing arm being that they would not hold up to the high temperatures of the curing ovens used for powder coating. The strut bushings were also removed from the triple tree as were the jackshaft and head bearings.
The swing arm bushings were removed by a machine shop, they pushed right out on a press. I was told that I could have used a C-Clamp, sockets and a lump hammer but decided to use this method to re-install the bushings.
Rupp Hustler Frame Set - Before
Ready for powder coating, finish will be high gloss black.
Rupp Hustler Frame Set - Before
The seat pan was in sad shape, too much much time outside = mucho moisture and the seat foam acts like a wet sponge. There were some rust thru spots and uneven surface. the holes and rough spots were repaired with a brazing rod and later ground and sanded.
Rupp Hustler Seat Pan - Before
The Frame Set was powder coated in High Gloss Black and Swing Arm Bushings were replaced. The bushings are a lot easier to put back on, they slide right back in with the use of a large C-Clamp. Lightly tapping the side of the C-Clamp after a few turns drives the bushings in nice. Turn/Tighten/Tap, Turn/Tighten/Tap....
Rupp Hustler Swing Arm
Rupp Hustler Swing Arm
Remember it's a lot easier to have the powder coating shop plug the swing arm where the bearings go. Unless you like to file and sand later.
Rupp Hustler Swing Arm
Rupp Hustler Swing Arm
Remember it's a lot easier to have the powder coating shop plug the swing arm where the bearings go. Unless you like to file and sand later.
Thanks! I do not believe that it's legal or if so, there aren't any chrome plating shops left in NYC. The local motorcycle shop was nice enough to throw the bars in with a bunch of HD parts that he was sending off to the west coast and he passed through his cost with no shipping. He liked the mini American iron, nice guy, I owe him a ride or two!!
The seat was a mess and I wanted to get this project done. Looking back I could of waited until I found a cleaner frame but the grinding, braze and powder coat covered a-lotta sin.
If I was to spray the frame I guess that body filler would also do the trick. However, the seat does flex quite a bit so I'm not sure if the filler would hold up??
The seat was a mess and I wanted to get this project done. Looking back I could of waited until I found a cleaner frame but the grinding, braze and powder coat covered a-lotta sin.
If I was to spray the frame I guess that body filler would also do the trick. However, the seat does flex quite a bit so I'm not sure if the filler would hold up??
That will work. You can also take the seat pan off the frame cut some thin plate steel to fit nice-nice on the inside bottom and weld the plate from the bottom against the outside edge of the pan. Fill in the holes on the top outside of the pan with lead solder or body filler after welding the pan back onto the frame. Sorry, it's a little more work...
I made a similar repair to the back of the seat pan by the fender bracket. It was missing the lower half, welded a piece of thin plate that was cut to size and shape, ground the weld smooth, drilled the holes for the tail light wiring harness and fender bracket to size and you would never know that the repair was made.
I made a similar repair to the back of the seat pan by the fender bracket. It was missing the lower half, welded a piece of thin plate that was cut to size and shape, ground the weld smooth, drilled the holes for the tail light wiring harness and fender bracket to size and you would never know that the repair was made.
Minibikedude-The coating is great if it's applied by a good shop. It can be a horror if it's not, sections can start flaking and it's much difficult to take off compared to paint. Holds up to oil and paint and I believe that it's used on most newer motorcycle frames.
There is a cost factor. As such, I usually use good quality rattle cans. This frame set had quite a bit of rust and the media blasting/powder coating made up my mind on not using paint. I probably could have ebay'd the frame and purchased a cleaner one but that would have pushed this project back by a few weeks...
There is a cost factor. As such, I usually use good quality rattle cans. This frame set had quite a bit of rust and the media blasting/powder coating made up my mind on not using paint. I probably could have ebay'd the frame and purchased a cleaner one but that would have pushed this project back by a few weeks...
There is a big difference between rattle cans and prof paint. I've used Dupli Color and even House of Kolor rattle cans (expensive!) and there is nothing like a qulaity powder coat job. Can do a whole mini for $75-$125. Sure, rattle cans will be cheaper...probably $25-$40 (primer, paint, clear). But you still have to sand it or get it blasted. But if you are looking for quality, get the powder coat or send it to a prof. painter. It all depends on what you want...
Jeff, powder is the best but it does cost more it also holds up better to fuel and oil. However, if you have a clean survivor a light sand and paint also works well. A top coat of clear paint helps.
I also do not believe that the soldered seams on a Rupp fuel tank holds up to the curing oven temp. The shop I use was willing to bake the tank at the end of the cycle as the ovens cool but he would not guarantee that the seams woul keep together.
With that said,for this restoration the tank and fender got dropped off at a local body and fender shop for a professional finish.
Like you mentioned, it all depends on what kind of finish your looking for.
I also do not believe that the soldered seams on a Rupp fuel tank holds up to the curing oven temp. The shop I use was willing to bake the tank at the end of the cycle as the ovens cool but he would not guarantee that the seams woul keep together.
With that said,for this restoration the tank and fender got dropped off at a local body and fender shop for a professional finish.
Like you mentioned, it all depends on what kind of finish your looking for.
