This Might Be Kinda Cool...

Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#1
#1
This is a sample of 7/8" OD, .058" wall thickness stainless steel tubing that I got from midwestx...he stocks it in length, and uses it to make handles for his hand tools...

He also has a TIG welder set up for stainless...

I'm thinking of making a polished/satin frame with this tubing...it buffs fairly easily...

The frame pictured was made by another member...I think the modified vintage style absolutely kills...very old school speedster hot rod look to it...

...and I'm not against stealing some style from someone when it looks this good...

Anyone already have a stainless frame?
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#4
#4
Still thinking about this stainless frame...

tomsprops posted this nice pic of a TACO frame...which is built with a single piece top, rather than the more commonly seen 'two sides braced together' style used by most other brands...

I (personally) think TACO made some of the most stylish frames of the minibike era, and really took some risky chances with some of their models...

I usually try to incorporate some TACO elements into the design of my bikes, and I especially like the loopy rear top tube extending out over the seatstays...
 
H

Hent

New Member
#5
#5
I've considered doing a S.S or aluminum frame, just to try something different.

But, since I don't have a tig welder, or a ton of time to do it yet, It'll be put on hold for a while.

Let me know how you make out with it. :grind:
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#6
#6
I thought I might use OldMiniBikes to sort of 'think out loud' on this project...that way I could get some input from other members...

I'm not set up to work stainless either...and it has been a booger each time I've worked with it in the past...the 303/304 alloy for the brake on the last bike required cobalt bits to drill the holes...it dulled HSS and TiN bits in seconds...

I suppose if the frame tubing is stainless, the rest of the frame components should be made from the same material...

The chain bike forks are chromoly tube with stainless springer components...my little shop MIG can be loaded with stainless wire and shielding gas when needed...

Here's Oldsalt's pic of that aluminum frame from Bonneville...and check out the bead on that jackshaft washer in the first pic....sweeeeeet...
 
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Gear_Jammer

Gear_Jammer

New Member
#7
#7
Yellowhand said:
This is a sample of 7/8" OD, .058" wall thickness stainless steel tubing that I got from midwestx...he stocks it in length, and uses it to make handles for his hand tools...QUOTE]

I am totally dig'n those handlebars. I wonder how tricky they would be to ride with...I guess it would just take a little getting used to. They look killer though...:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
 
x-90 rider

x-90 rider

#8
#8
Stainless steel tubing in 7/8" or 1" is commonly used for boat rails and is readily available prepolished. If you are going to invest in high dollar tubing, there are some things to consider:
1. Protect it against getting scratched or dented during bending - plastic lined or smooth machined steel shoes are needed for bending.
2. TIG welding is the only way to go and use 308L filler rod for 304 stainless. 303 stainless is not acceptable for welding and is likely to have stress cracks and fissures in the weld. If 303 must be used, 312 is the recommended filler rod.
3. It is fine to weld carbon steel pieces to stainless but a 309 filler rod is needed. The carbon steel pieces can be painted after welding.
4. If the tubing is prepolished and the welds are clean, they can be cleaned up with Blue Away. If you sand or polish, you will be in for a lot of work to get the finish to match.

I used 7/8" prepolished stainless tubing for the rails and fender mounts on the X-90 trailer.





 
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