I have a question on valve seats on a briggs 5hp 130212-1919-01 motor with date code 86082807. I got it from a friend who was in the process of rebuilding it. He had bought all the parts like new rings, piston, gaskets, valves, and so on. When I got it from him, everything was in a big box. About 20 years ago I built / rebuilt about 40 small motors so I have a little knowledge of them but I never had to mess with the valve seats. They were always good enough to just lap them and let them go. I started putting this one back together and soon as I installed the valves I noticed something wasn’t right. I then noticed the valve seats were missing and felt like a dumb a** for even dropping them in the hole and not noticing it before. Well after that I just stopped and started reading for about 3 solid weeks refreshing my brain on everything; I think I am ready to finish building the motor now. I am just stuck on a few things I need help with. The motor is just going on a 285 Manco Dingo yard kart so I am not looking to do every little tweak I can to it. I just want it to run the best it can and me be able to do all of the work / labor to it myself. I could just buy a motor but I am the type person who for 37 years does 99.9% of everything himself. That’s just the one thing in life that makes me the happiest – knowing I done it myself.
First is the valve seats. I would like to install these myself if at all possible. I have read in some of the old briggs books that if you put the seat in the freezer or in dry ice and heat the block up, they install fairly easy and seal excellent. Should I still use Loctite or something like JB Weld to help seal and hold them in? Should I still ping around them?
Next is the exhaust valve. I know on the Briggs diagram it shows the valve going down though the hole, the spring, and then the clip to hold it together. On some motors there is a piece that goes on top of the spring called something like rotocoil or rotocap. In the parts, I did not find any part like this so I was wondering if my model had this piece and it just wasn’t in the box.
He already had the piston in but I took it out and double checked everything. The rings were all turned right and looked good but I had a question about the rod. There were no arrows or markings on the piston so I assume it could go any direction. The rod had an oil hole that went down to the crank. I turned it toward the cam shaft so as it would get the best oil. The cap and rod had like little tabs / tits so I just matched them so I think I have them correct.
The guides seem to be good. I know the intake valve fit very tight. The exhaust valve guide I can’t remember. How hard is to replace the guide if I needed to?
Last is the crank shaft bushings. This motor does not have the bearings but I think it has the bushings. How hard is it to press the bushings in the block and the cover if it needs them?
Other than them few things, I think I have everything else figured out.
First is the valve seats. I would like to install these myself if at all possible. I have read in some of the old briggs books that if you put the seat in the freezer or in dry ice and heat the block up, they install fairly easy and seal excellent. Should I still use Loctite or something like JB Weld to help seal and hold them in? Should I still ping around them?
Next is the exhaust valve. I know on the Briggs diagram it shows the valve going down though the hole, the spring, and then the clip to hold it together. On some motors there is a piece that goes on top of the spring called something like rotocoil or rotocap. In the parts, I did not find any part like this so I was wondering if my model had this piece and it just wasn’t in the box.
He already had the piston in but I took it out and double checked everything. The rings were all turned right and looked good but I had a question about the rod. There were no arrows or markings on the piston so I assume it could go any direction. The rod had an oil hole that went down to the crank. I turned it toward the cam shaft so as it would get the best oil. The cap and rod had like little tabs / tits so I just matched them so I think I have them correct.
The guides seem to be good. I know the intake valve fit very tight. The exhaust valve guide I can’t remember. How hard is to replace the guide if I needed to?
Last is the crank shaft bushings. This motor does not have the bearings but I think it has the bushings. How hard is it to press the bushings in the block and the cover if it needs them?
Other than them few things, I think I have everything else figured out.