ok so you have the old rope pukes out screaming recoil , just no catching . well your balls are dirty and need to be cleaned . heres how we go about doing the tear down and reassembly.
ok so standard briggs sprag clutch older type recoil . for the most part there all the same from the lawn muncher to your mini . so if you see a dead lawn scalper grab the thing for parts .
ok so here we have the cover off you can see the balls in the pockets and the center drive . you dont have to pull them off the motor to work on them . i just didnt feel like stripping down a motor to take pics . but it can be easire if you do pull them off . to do so you go here and that will let you get it off the block .
and here we have every thing laid out you can see the top cover and the spacer washer center drive back housing/nut . you want to clean every thing real good .
ok back housing/nut wipe it out real good and use carb spray to clean it out . you want no grease at all in there , you dont really even want oil in there it will get sticky and jam the clutch and bust the rope , snap the spring , or not let the balls go in place and you will have no pull starter .
i have done it and trust me youll be back in here doing it the wright way . if you feel that you must oil or some thing in there use a very small amount of atf and spread it around then wipe every thing down with a rag .
ok the drive center you see the little hole in the top , ther is a felt pad behind it . you may want to remove it if your recoil is giving you trouble and clean it . dont loose it , you can run the motor with out it but you have to oil the center alot more . just poke in the hole with a pick and reach in from the back with a small needle nose pliers or some small tool.
and here is the pad , if your motor has been used in a hard life like left outside you may need to clean this off . carb spray and dry it out before pushing it back in . get it in flat and strait screw driver works good for pushing it back in there .
if the inside of the center is nasty , and rust you can clean it out with some emery paper folded over a rod or exacto handle
just run it up and down your leg and get it cleaned out spray it down and make sure it clean no sand or crap .
some how i lost a photo :censure: the end of the crank need to be clean and free of rust so if need be run some emery paper across it and clean it off too.
if you put the center on the shaft it should spin nice and free
no binding or tight spots if you feel any check it out and fix the reason like burrs in the crank or sand rust other crap in the thing . get it out and make sure it turn nice and free .
now to get the balls back in there holes tip the motor to the side like 45 deg works ok and drop one in each pocket there is 6 you can run with as few as 3 but dont do it if you dont have to .
make sure if you have the washer you have it in place and then you can put the cover back on . putting in the screws makes it a bit easier as the cove can fall off . once you have the cover back on put a few drop of aft in the hole with the pad .
you can use motor oil too both seem to work fine atf last longer it seems. now just to check it works like it should it should turn free one way and lock up tight the other
now just put the recoil back on and go have a bit of fun . or mow the lawn if you fixing the mower .
a good idea is to strip down old clutches and save the balls you very often see one missing or rusty . save the ones out of mowers and you can replace sad looking or missing ones
yes i have killed alot of push mowers to get that bag full
ok so standard briggs sprag clutch older type recoil . for the most part there all the same from the lawn muncher to your mini . so if you see a dead lawn scalper grab the thing for parts .
ok so here we have the cover off you can see the balls in the pockets and the center drive . you dont have to pull them off the motor to work on them . i just didnt feel like stripping down a motor to take pics . but it can be easire if you do pull them off . to do so you go here and that will let you get it off the block .
and here we have every thing laid out you can see the top cover and the spacer washer center drive back housing/nut . you want to clean every thing real good .
ok back housing/nut wipe it out real good and use carb spray to clean it out . you want no grease at all in there , you dont really even want oil in there it will get sticky and jam the clutch and bust the rope , snap the spring , or not let the balls go in place and you will have no pull starter .
i have done it and trust me youll be back in here doing it the wright way . if you feel that you must oil or some thing in there use a very small amount of atf and spread it around then wipe every thing down with a rag .
ok the drive center you see the little hole in the top , ther is a felt pad behind it . you may want to remove it if your recoil is giving you trouble and clean it . dont loose it , you can run the motor with out it but you have to oil the center alot more . just poke in the hole with a pick and reach in from the back with a small needle nose pliers or some small tool.
and here is the pad , if your motor has been used in a hard life like left outside you may need to clean this off . carb spray and dry it out before pushing it back in . get it in flat and strait screw driver works good for pushing it back in there .
if the inside of the center is nasty , and rust you can clean it out with some emery paper folded over a rod or exacto handle
just run it up and down your leg and get it cleaned out spray it down and make sure it clean no sand or crap .
some how i lost a photo :censure: the end of the crank need to be clean and free of rust so if need be run some emery paper across it and clean it off too.
if you put the center on the shaft it should spin nice and free
no binding or tight spots if you feel any check it out and fix the reason like burrs in the crank or sand rust other crap in the thing . get it out and make sure it turn nice and free .
now to get the balls back in there holes tip the motor to the side like 45 deg works ok and drop one in each pocket there is 6 you can run with as few as 3 but dont do it if you dont have to .
make sure if you have the washer you have it in place and then you can put the cover back on . putting in the screws makes it a bit easier as the cove can fall off . once you have the cover back on put a few drop of aft in the hole with the pad .
you can use motor oil too both seem to work fine atf last longer it seems. now just to check it works like it should it should turn free one way and lock up tight the other
now just put the recoil back on and go have a bit of fun . or mow the lawn if you fixing the mower .
a good idea is to strip down old clutches and save the balls you very often see one missing or rusty . save the ones out of mowers and you can replace sad looking or missing ones
yes i have killed alot of push mowers to get that bag full
ut: Seriously though I'm using a screw in fitting with a flange and then a header on the H35 and you owe me nothing for what was sent, I will mail the brass and template anyway in case you decide to surprise me or just make pipes with the right flange offset for H35s.:thumbsup: