I would suggest buying a flap type sanding wheel or two, as well as the thin cut off disc. Flap wheels are not cheap but they last a lot longer than you would think. Just buy different grit wheels. The cut off disc's are about all I buy from Harbor Freight. Did buy my blast cabinet and glass from them.
Steve
Steve
I like Axes..
Anybody else?? :shrug:
Axes work very well for anything destructive..
a MUST HAVE for scrapping... Especially cars.. I have a double headed axe head with a steel tube about 4 feet long welded in for a handle thats been annealed and WOW that thing works good..
It's SWEET for tearing out wiring.. You can stand outside the car, and give it sharp jabs with the 10 inch long sharp ass head strait into the dash board cluster and in most vehicles just beat the whole dash board rite out of them.. Plastic shredded disaster in the seats and floor boards.. :evil_laughter:
But that will let ya hack out the heater core and air condenser core, and make the 2 inch thick copper wire vane running through there, easy to get at with your snippers.... :thumbsup:
THEN after ya cut the ends all free there, plastic clips and plugs, ground wires, mounting straps all loose so they slide through stuff easily....
Ya take your trusty Axe and slash the carpeting wide open along the floor down each outer edge on both sides and cut loose what ends are grounded and stuff in that big ass 6 foot long 3 inch thick copper vane :drool:
And ya take your trusty Axe and ya tie the wiring harness on the end around that big ole wide ass hammer head :evil_laughter: and ya rip the wiring all out like gutting a deer..
You can get one of those wire clusters that wants to hang up in a hole in the steel body structure or a big ole ground wire ya can't get to.. SO ya tighten your grasp and take up the slack coming off from one end, use the other end as an anchor point, and use the leverage of your 4 foot handle to RIP the stuff loose.. :evil_laughter:
Whats that,
hmy: Big ole Aluminum trim pieces??? :drool:
HAYAH!! :hammer: LOOK AT THAT ALUMINUM FLY!!!
Chop shit in half..
Two seconds flat ya just lopped off 6 pounds of brass screwed onto that water heater.. :hammer:
DAMN that dryer is empty and huge and light weight for space in the truck box... Use this damn Battle Axe to pound 600 pounds of tin cans up it's ass with the hammer head jabber action.. :2guns:
Peal sheet metal wide open with a swat of my Battle Axe... :hammer:
Bust up engine blocks..and cast iron bath tubs (with the dull end )
Split fire wood.....
I have an old like 50's or 60's Estwing hatchet with a rubber handle I made because the leather one had rotted off.... It's like :drool: :drool: sharp... I've got it worked down to sweet wet stone finish SHARP as hell.. That I call my Tactical Hatchet.. :evil_laughter:
I like axes.. :laugh:
Anyone else??
Anybody else?? :shrug:
Axes work very well for anything destructive..
a MUST HAVE for scrapping... Especially cars.. I have a double headed axe head with a steel tube about 4 feet long welded in for a handle thats been annealed and WOW that thing works good..
It's SWEET for tearing out wiring.. You can stand outside the car, and give it sharp jabs with the 10 inch long sharp ass head strait into the dash board cluster and in most vehicles just beat the whole dash board rite out of them.. Plastic shredded disaster in the seats and floor boards.. :evil_laughter:
But that will let ya hack out the heater core and air condenser core, and make the 2 inch thick copper wire vane running through there, easy to get at with your snippers.... :thumbsup:
THEN after ya cut the ends all free there, plastic clips and plugs, ground wires, mounting straps all loose so they slide through stuff easily....
Ya take your trusty Axe and slash the carpeting wide open along the floor down each outer edge on both sides and cut loose what ends are grounded and stuff in that big ass 6 foot long 3 inch thick copper vane :drool:
And ya take your trusty Axe and ya tie the wiring harness on the end around that big ole wide ass hammer head :evil_laughter: and ya rip the wiring all out like gutting a deer..
You can get one of those wire clusters that wants to hang up in a hole in the steel body structure or a big ole ground wire ya can't get to.. SO ya tighten your grasp and take up the slack coming off from one end, use the other end as an anchor point, and use the leverage of your 4 foot handle to RIP the stuff loose.. :evil_laughter:
Whats that,
hmy: Big ole Aluminum trim pieces??? :drool:HAYAH!! :hammer: LOOK AT THAT ALUMINUM FLY!!!
Chop shit in half..
Two seconds flat ya just lopped off 6 pounds of brass screwed onto that water heater.. :hammer:
DAMN that dryer is empty and huge and light weight for space in the truck box... Use this damn Battle Axe to pound 600 pounds of tin cans up it's ass with the hammer head jabber action.. :2guns:
Peal sheet metal wide open with a swat of my Battle Axe... :hammer:
Bust up engine blocks..and cast iron bath tubs (with the dull end )
Split fire wood.....
I have an old like 50's or 60's Estwing hatchet with a rubber handle I made because the leather one had rotted off.... It's like :drool: :drool: sharp... I've got it worked down to sweet wet stone finish SHARP as hell.. That I call my Tactical Hatchet.. :evil_laughter:
I like axes.. :laugh:
Anyone else??
Those Russian-made cutoff wheels from HF are the bomb...$6.99 for a ten pack.
Blackstone flap disks from Fastenal are also cheap and good...
Get both of those and you'll be cutting off and sanding smooth in no time.
When you get tired of constantly changing back and forth between wheels and disks, get your wife an angle grinder for her birthday.
Blackstone flap disks from Fastenal are also cheap and good...
Get both of those and you'll be cutting off and sanding smooth in no time.
When you get tired of constantly changing back and forth between wheels and disks, get your wife an angle grinder for her birthday.
Do not click on this link The Garage Journal :laugh:, if you do you'll find the answer to your question but it will cost you....oh, believe me it will cost you.:thumbsup: BTW, Happy BD.
It’s 7 years later and I am curious if your DeWalt angle grinder is still running and working fine...??
I’m in the market for a quality one because my experiment in a budget angle grinder from Harbor Freight is ending—the Drillmaster 4.5” angle grinder I have is dying a rapid death. It vibrates so badly, that I fear it may grenade at any time plus it wails like a banshee. I bet it doesn’t have 5 total hours on it.
So [MENTION=20377]buckeye[/MENTION] or anyone else who can recommend a new brand name angle grinder that has some longevity and that’s about as good as ones made 50 years ago or so, please chime in.
I’m in the market for a quality one because my experiment in a budget angle grinder from Harbor Freight is ending—the Drillmaster 4.5” angle grinder I have is dying a rapid death. It vibrates so badly, that I fear it may grenade at any time plus it wails like a banshee. I bet it doesn’t have 5 total hours on it.
So [MENTION=20377]buckeye[/MENTION] or anyone else who can recommend a new brand name angle grinder that has some longevity and that’s about as good as ones made 50 years ago or so, please chime in.
Harq, all of mine are Milwaukee 4 1/2'' grinders. I have 8 of them….. And they are all the same. I have 1 Dewalt that I use with a flap wheel on Aluminum and nothing else. I don't like it..... It is not comfortable in my hand. :shrug:
I have a metal 30 gallon can beside my welding table that I toss scrap steel in. 4 of them hang on it, plugged in all the time. Each with a different purpose. A stone, a wire brush, a cut off wheel and a flap wheel. 2 are at school for use there and 2 are on the shelf for back up. Actually I now have 9 as I just bought another one off Ebay. Mine are older style that have a large paddle switch that just falls in place when you pick it up. They have a little trip, safety, tab that my pinky falls on when I pick one up. They wont run until you trip that little tab which makes them very user friendly when you handle them. All newer paddle switch grinders have a safety tab but I have never picked up another brand that feel in the right spot or that felt as secure in my grip.
Bruce has 1 like mine that I found for him on Ebay and he has another with a slide switch on the side. It flat scares me to use it. The switch locks in place when you turn it on and if you were to drop it or it hangs up and kicks out of your hand it would eat you up before you could get away from it. It is way to dangerous to use with a cut off wheel but usable with a flap wheel.
Whatever you buy try every one that you can get your hands on for how it feels in your hand. They are a 10,000 rpm tool :grind: that will hurt you before you know that you have been hurt. Make sure that you like the feel.
With all of mine being the same I don't have to think about "how does this one work" when I pick it up. It just falls in place in my hand and it works.
I tend to overthink things but I am paranoid about not getting hurt. I have been hurt plenty working in the shop by myself. The older I get the more I see how dumb something that I do or did can be....
This is the one that I just bought and is by far the best fit for me.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
You can see that the paddle is large and the little trip tab is easy to trip with your little finger when you have it in hand. I bought this particular one because it is a variable speed model. I have a variable speed one that I have had for 25 plus years and it can be very handy to slow the wheel down for delicate work. Look at the end of the handle right above the power cord and you can see the thumb wheel for the speed adjustment. These also have a quick release power cord that is easy to swap out. Its ratty looking but they work forever. I have not had a single one like this fail and several are at least 20 years old. And all of them were used when I bought them. I do use them heavily when I use them and they are tuff.
Hope this is helpful.
Doug
One last thing... I have handles for all of mine but have never used one with the handle as they always seem to be in the way to me.
I have a metal 30 gallon can beside my welding table that I toss scrap steel in. 4 of them hang on it, plugged in all the time. Each with a different purpose. A stone, a wire brush, a cut off wheel and a flap wheel. 2 are at school for use there and 2 are on the shelf for back up. Actually I now have 9 as I just bought another one off Ebay. Mine are older style that have a large paddle switch that just falls in place when you pick it up. They have a little trip, safety, tab that my pinky falls on when I pick one up. They wont run until you trip that little tab which makes them very user friendly when you handle them. All newer paddle switch grinders have a safety tab but I have never picked up another brand that feel in the right spot or that felt as secure in my grip.
Bruce has 1 like mine that I found for him on Ebay and he has another with a slide switch on the side. It flat scares me to use it. The switch locks in place when you turn it on and if you were to drop it or it hangs up and kicks out of your hand it would eat you up before you could get away from it. It is way to dangerous to use with a cut off wheel but usable with a flap wheel.
Whatever you buy try every one that you can get your hands on for how it feels in your hand. They are a 10,000 rpm tool :grind: that will hurt you before you know that you have been hurt. Make sure that you like the feel.
With all of mine being the same I don't have to think about "how does this one work" when I pick it up. It just falls in place in my hand and it works.
I tend to overthink things but I am paranoid about not getting hurt. I have been hurt plenty working in the shop by myself. The older I get the more I see how dumb something that I do or did can be....
This is the one that I just bought and is by far the best fit for me.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
You can see that the paddle is large and the little trip tab is easy to trip with your little finger when you have it in hand. I bought this particular one because it is a variable speed model. I have a variable speed one that I have had for 25 plus years and it can be very handy to slow the wheel down for delicate work. Look at the end of the handle right above the power cord and you can see the thumb wheel for the speed adjustment. These also have a quick release power cord that is easy to swap out. Its ratty looking but they work forever. I have not had a single one like this fail and several are at least 20 years old. And all of them were used when I bought them. I do use them heavily when I use them and they are tuff.
Hope this is helpful.
Doug
One last thing... I have handles for all of mine but have never used one with the handle as they always seem to be in the way to me.
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