Upgrade from clutch to TAV

AllTorque

AllTorque

New Member
#1
#1
My clutch is shot, but I don't want to go with another clutch. I'd like to upgrade to a TAV type drive. What would be the best way to do that with the set-up I have (see image). I was thinking a drive pully on the engine and a driven pully on the jackshaft. Does anyone know a good reputable place to get these parts and do they come together or do I buy separately?
 
AllTorque

AllTorque

New Member
#3
#3
But when the suspension compresses,the chain will slack to the point where it will fall off. I could add a long travel spring loaded chain take-up to remove the slack. I'll try to find some dimensions of a driven pulley then figure out if it will fit in the frame. If not, maybe your way will be the way to go with a chain take-up. Thanks.
 
G

GTO

#4
#4
The Tav would be close to where you are now using the JS. It will depends on if your engine lines up and you can clear the frame >(/) if you can use the JS for the diven.
 
minibikedude

minibikedude

Active Member
#5
#5
It looks like the style frame you have should be able to use a two speed clutch set up like a lot of the 68-69 Rupps had and you can get them from BMI for around 100 bucks in a kit. I might be easier than using the TAV. Is that a Lil Indian frame.
 
joshhoward

joshhoward

New Member
#7
#7
To be honest, i used the 2 speed on a Trail Horse. I wasnt happy with it. It would shift to secnd way to fast. I like the idea, but without some mods to the driven clutch i wouldnt do it again.


BTW i bought the 2 speed setup new.


Josh
 
AllTorque

AllTorque

New Member
#8
#8
Looks like I'll be getting another clutch.

Thanks for all the good info. Please keep it coming. I took some dimensions and I'm not sure if I'd be able to fit a TAV or a driven pulley (saw a 6" dia) in the frame. I didn't realize how tight it was in there. Could anyone post some dimensions of their tav setup from the center of the drive shaft to the end of the TAV housing? Thanks again!
 
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#9
#9
there is just no way you can get a torque converter to fit? only way it could happen is to cut and reweld things:doah::hack::weld:and i don't think you want to do that?
the smallest torque converter that i know would be a 20's comet with a rear 6inch driven.
the driven unit measures about 6 1/4inch wide(pulley) and 2 1/2 tall and the driver measures 5inch wide and 3inch tall. something that might work is to cut the jackshaft mount plates off and extend them out just enough for the pulley to clear the rear cross swing arm support. smallest belt comet makes is a 7inch lenth. that would be from the center of crank or driver unit to the center of jackshaft or driven unit. so you need to watch how much you extend the mount out. you also could slot the engine mounts little more forward. you can see it doesn't take long before you start to cut things up to make it fit right.:doah::hack::grind:
belt chart 20 Series Belts


 
AllTorque

AllTorque

New Member
#10
#10
I think that just put the final nail in the coffin for this idea.:hammer: I'd rather not chop on this frame.:hack: I'll just have to put a new clutch on it and appreciate the massive torque I have available. By the way...could anyone recommend a good centrifugal clutch that will withstand the beating I'm about to put on it? Thanks again for all the great info and help. This is one of the best forums I've ever been on. :thumbsup:
 
J

JoeRogue

New Member
#11
#11
IDEA!!! If you move the motor forward, maybe a little bit to either side, and maybe put a riser between the motor and the frame a TAV should clear. Then instead of taking out the JS you can just shorten the chain you have and run it from the TAV to the JS. Also, from what it looks like your JS gear is movable which would aid you in lining everything up as well. You may still end up having to do a little :grind: to the TAV but you should be able to get it in there without :hack: and :hammer: your frame up. Best part of this is the 4 holes you would drill to relocate your motor would be able to be plug welded if you ever decided to go back to stock and no one would ever know what you had done. I say go for it!
 
AllTorque

AllTorque

New Member
#12
#12
It doesn't look like I can get the motor far enough forward.:doah: Again, I'm still not exactly sure what the length of a TAV is from the center of the driver pulley to the farthest edge of the driven pulley (the back plate I can modify). I know a driven pulley will not fit, the 6" OD is too large. I wish I could get a full scale outline drawing of the tav, then I'd print it out, make a cut-out and try to mock something up around the cutout.

The two speed clutch jackshaft kit is starting to look more promising, but I'm not even sure if I'd have the clearance for the jackshaft mounted clutch, which are usually 4" OD:confused:. But if you see the dimensions in the posted pics, the clutch would probably just fit. I'll contact BMI and see if they'll accept a return if the set-up doesn't fit. No choppy choppy!
 
G

GTO

#13
#13
Are you sure a tav 2 wont work? Remove the JS and maybe raise the engine 1/2" to clear the slant head engine.

Heres a pic to show length.

 
Last edited:
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#14
#14
probable be the best not to chop anything on that bike. it's just to cool looking to do it to that frame. two speed would be cool if it fits. won't be as good as a tav-2 but better then just a single speed clutch. i don't know much about two speed,but it still looks like you may have problems with that?
area you got with is just to dam small:doah:
 
G

GTO

#15
#15
The two speed needs two chains and to be spaced over. Best chance is a Tav 2 with engine raised on a block of aluminum (like some DB mods)
 
J

JoeRogue

New Member
#17
#17
I will measure my TAV2 in the mourning and get you the numbers. I honestly don't think it would be to big for you to make it work. Regardless, I will measure away and post in the AM.
 
AllTorque

AllTorque

New Member
#18
#18
I can probably get a plate of 7075-T6 aircraft quality aluminum that I can tap into and use it to both raise and move the engine forward in one shot so that I don't have to modify the frame. When JoeRogue posts the dimensions I'll have a better idea if it will fit. I'll post some pics with dims when I have the engine in it's new position. Thanks again guys! I'm definitely going to have to put better brakes on this bike.
 
J

JoeRogue

New Member
#19
#19
Sorry it took me so long to post. I woke up late and grabbed my camera but the battery was dead. I threw the battery on the charger and went back a couple hours later only to realize I never turned the power strip it was plugged into on. Well a couple hours after that and I finally got to measuring. It was hard as hell to take the pictures and measure everything alone so I added what the measurements were in real life.

Actual measurement is 13 inches end to end of the back plate.


6 inches bottom to top of back plate @ the crank.


7 inches bottom to top of back plate @ JS.


7/8 of an inch from backing plate to pulley.


If there is anything I missed you need me to measure let me know and I will get on it.
 
jeep2003

jeep2003

#20
#20
i agree you should be able to move the engine forward and up and make it fit without messing with the jackshaft at all. The tc can be clocked way up to the bottom of your head so that should help too
 
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