Why is clone harder to start after I installed custom header.

hojo

New Member
#1
Before I made my custom header, my engine would always start up first pull with the choke even after removing the governor. But you would still have to give it gas. Now after installing the new header, you have to give it half throttle 5 or + pulls, warm up lap then its able to idle. Is rejetting the idle jet the solution? Im still a newbie and this is my first homemade mini bike.
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#5
The open pipe shouldn't effect idle or how easy it is to start. Something else might have changed, maybe dirt in carb. Does it run ok and take the gas good after it warms up or does it cut out i you step on it too quick?
 

hojo

New Member
#6
The open pipe shouldn't effect idle or how easy it is to start. Something else might have changed, maybe dirt in carb. Does it run ok and take the gas good after it warms up or does it cut out i you step on it too quick?
After it warms up it idles real good and never shuts off.
 
#8
Probably just a little too lean from the factory for emissions. If you only had a problem a few times, it could be that the temperature/humidity was a little different on that particular day. That can change it some. I notice my 5hp briggs on my db30 runs better some days than others if I don't adjust the carb. If you have a hard time starting it consistently, then you might have a problem. You could try drilling the jet out slightly or just find a carb that is adjustable, then you can change it whenever you want. If your going to do a lot of work with different carbs/jets, you can buy a numbered drill bit set with tiny bit specificly for jets. You can also buy them individualy if you know what one you need for a certain thing. Just remember that the number of the bits has nothing to do with the number of the jet, and different companys that make jets use different numbers for different sizes. In other words, just because the jet is a #59 for example, doesn't mean a #59 drill bit is the same size.
 

hojo

New Member
#9
Probably just a little too lean from the factory for emissions. If you only had a problem a few times, it could be that the temperature/humidity was a little different on that particular day. That can change it some. I notice my 5hp briggs on my db30 runs better some days than others if I don't adjust the carb. If you have a hard time starting it consistently, then you might have a problem. You could try drilling the jet out slightly or just find a carb that is adjustable, then you can change it whenever you want. If your going to do a lot of work with different carbs/jets, you can buy a numbered drill bit set with tiny bit specificly for jets. You can also buy them individualy if you know what one you need for a certain thing. Just remember that the number of the bits has nothing to do with the number of the jet, and different companys that make jets use different numbers for different sizes. In other words, just because the jet is a #59 for example, doesn't mean a #59 drill bit is the same size.
I checked the spark plug though and its perfect; it looks to be right in the middle of too rich and too lean.
 
#12
If the muffler is all you changed....then he is correct and you need a stock muffler to verify. Because putting a header pipe doesn't mean you have to jet it or get an air filter. The factory exhaust is very restricted and helps alot to just add a pipe. I have proven this at Ubly many times. I am local if you need a stock one to try out or a better flowing header pipe. :thumbsup:
 
#13
Those engine are way too lean from the Factory. F***ing EPA, My newer 6.5 clone engine did not like being run with a open header. It would not idle worth a crap. I put the header I made with a muffler back on and it would run fine. So, I drilled out the Idle jet and also the Main jet and it works perfect now. Starts a lot easier too know. You will need a orifice drill index for this job, But only step up one size at a time until you get it correct or you will have to buy new jets.
 

hojo

New Member
#14
Those engine are way too lean from the Factory. F***ing EPA, My newer 6.5 clone engine did not like being run with a open header. It would not idle worth a crap. I put the header I made with a muffler back on and it would run fine. So, I drilled out the Idle jet and also the Main jet and it works perfect now. Starts a lot easier too know. You will need a orifice drill index for this job, But only step up one size at a time until you get it correct or you will have to buy new jets.
I fixed the problem. I adjusted the throttle cable just a tad to increase idle speed and now its able to idle. But I still have to give it crazy gas like half throttle and the choke and it starts up first pull and idles. So I'm not complaining. I think ill just buy the jets when I get a new air filter since that drill index costs a bit of money.
 
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