I just finished painting a 3HP Briggs. I removed the carb, gas tank, air filter and pull start cover. I lightly sanded the whole engine and wire brushed between the fins to clean out any dirt. I there were chips in the original paint I feathered them out with sand paper so the wouldn't show through the new paint. I pulled the spark plug and put shop towel in the hole as well as in the carb and exhaust holes.I primed the cover with Rustoleum primer but not the engine as it was sanded well enough to give the paint adhesion. Then sprayed light coats and let dry. You can re-coat within about an hour but to full cure the paint has to be left for 5-7 days or if you re-spray it will wrinkle like a prune.I did the same with the tank and air cleaner. The carb I just cleaned with solvent and the sprayed it lightly, If there is any oil or grease on the engine wipe it all down with Varsol before painting and tack cloth any dust off the parts prior to paint. I use automotive paint as most are not eaten by gas. Check the can out first otherwise any gas spill will damage your paint job. Good luck!:thumbsup:
jbe24jg,
There are LOTS of very detailed previous discussion threads on this topic. Perform a search on this forum and you will get some good information. You will get many different (and strong) opinions. You will have to choose for yourself which way to go...
Sidebar: Contrary to what some of my esteemed peers are recommending, my son and I are strong believers of NOT having the engine assembled (especially the head and head bolts) for painting. The head bolts look much better not painted, especially if you wire wheel them to a nice shiny finish which will contrast well with the engine paint. In addition, if they are painted over, the first time one is removed for whatever reason, it will crack and remove paint on the head around the bolt head= UGLY. Overall, on an engine, I really dislike painted over bolts.
Michael
There are LOTS of very detailed previous discussion threads on this topic. Perform a search on this forum and you will get some good information. You will get many different (and strong) opinions. You will have to choose for yourself which way to go...
Sidebar: Contrary to what some of my esteemed peers are recommending, my son and I are strong believers of NOT having the engine assembled (especially the head and head bolts) for painting. The head bolts look much better not painted, especially if you wire wheel them to a nice shiny finish which will contrast well with the engine paint. In addition, if they are painted over, the first time one is removed for whatever reason, it will crack and remove paint on the head around the bolt head= UGLY. Overall, on an engine, I really dislike painted over bolts.
Michael
It depends on the condition of the engine. If some of the paint is in good shape, I leave it for a good base, if not, I strip it with paint stripper, brass wheel, whatever it takes.
For restoration, (Not polishing aluminum, or making a show engine) you can leave the flywheel on and bag and tape it. The area behind it doesn't show.
I only use etching primer, not body primer, because it adheres better and provides a harder priming surface- and cures way faster.
For the air-cooled areas, (anything with fins) I use high temp rattle can when it's apart, so I can get in behind the oil breather, carb and exhaust areas. (Tape off gasket surfaces) For the tins, I use single stage automotive paint with a catalyst to make it fuel proof, and sometimes I shoot on some poly clear for finish and shine. Note that I have used automotive paint on the hot areas with no problems, but repairing scratches during reassembly is more difficult than with rattle can.
Once I reassemble the engine and get it running, I rattle can some more high temp on the head bolts, since they do get a bit scratched.
Lots of good advice above and elsewhere on OldMiniBikes, and everyone has their own way of doing it. The biggest thing is to keep it simple and commensurate with the overall restoration or build.
For restoration, (Not polishing aluminum, or making a show engine) you can leave the flywheel on and bag and tape it. The area behind it doesn't show.
I only use etching primer, not body primer, because it adheres better and provides a harder priming surface- and cures way faster.
For the air-cooled areas, (anything with fins) I use high temp rattle can when it's apart, so I can get in behind the oil breather, carb and exhaust areas. (Tape off gasket surfaces) For the tins, I use single stage automotive paint with a catalyst to make it fuel proof, and sometimes I shoot on some poly clear for finish and shine. Note that I have used automotive paint on the hot areas with no problems, but repairing scratches during reassembly is more difficult than with rattle can.
Once I reassemble the engine and get it running, I rattle can some more high temp on the head bolts, since they do get a bit scratched.
Lots of good advice above and elsewhere on OldMiniBikes, and everyone has their own way of doing it. The biggest thing is to keep it simple and commensurate with the overall restoration or build.
