Rusty gas tank fix, lazy style!

Sixpac440

Sixpac440

#1
#1
jeep4me gave me a briggs tank that had some rust in it a while back. I asked how to remove the rust and he said to put a handful of nuts in and shake till your arms fall off. I did and it worked but yep, my arms were tired!

Yesterday I pulled a briggs tank off a motor and it needed de-rusting.
I took it to work and here is my solution ....

[video=youtube;p1NYRGY3ni4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1NYRGY3ni4&feature=youtu.be[/video]

I mounted it to a powered whirligig and ran it clockwise and counterclockwise for a couple hours.
Did the trick!
 
capguncowboy

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#6
#6
I've used the electrolysis removal method before and it worked really well. Be sure you coat the inside of that tank with something when you're done or it will eventually end up rusted again. Red Kote works really well and is relatively easy to use. Just be sure you don't get it on any paint, since it's acetone based. I learned that lesson my Gilson tank :doah:
 
lostinbaja

lostinbaja

Member
#8
#8
I usually go with the tradition nuts and bolts but then I secure the tank to the mower deck on my lawn tractor then I cut 5 acres of grass. The tank is typically shiny inside when I'm done.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#12
#12
Jrturbo said:
After its clean, do you put anything on it? Or just fuel up and go?
Click to expand...
If it's not rusted, you can. If it is, I highly recommend Caswell's. I've used several different polymer types of sealants over the years. I don't use them anymore. Caswell's is a two-part epoxy. You can thin it with alcohol, or acetone, and do a couple of tanks at a time. The stuff is good, and the tank doesn't have to be perfect for it to work, unlike the polymer types which require perfect prep and etching.

I soak rusty tanks in my trusty muratic acid bucket. (It's a big bucket- six or seven gallons) After a day, I dump in a handful of sheet metal screws and a half cup of acetone. I rattle them around manually, dump, one more rinse with acetone. Then I seal, then I paint. Not the best way maybe, but it's what I do.
 
125ccCrazy

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#13
#13
white vinegar, let it soak for a few days or longer if it's real rusty...I've derusted several parts with white vinegar that looked unrestorable and when they derusting was done the parts looked like new metal..It works a lot better than evaporust and lots cheaper..
 
Outlaw Ace

Outlaw Ace

#14
#14
I need to try electrolysis, I have a large industrial grade regulated variable DC power supply that goes from 12 to 18 volts with circuit breakers on both outlets. My buddy with a Tattoo shop wants it but I'm not into tattoos and he has no cash, I use it to test 12v car parts but electrolysis is a very cool process. I can also use it to electroplate with some chemicals and other items, I used to gold plate emblems and door handles etc. at car lots with it but long since got rid of the plating stuff since it does not keep well over years of storage.
 
capguncowboy

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#18
#18
I did a tank last summer using electrolysis. It revealed a lot of pin holes in the metal. It wasn't the process that caused the pin holes, they were already there and the process just revealed the issue. However, a little bondo to fill the holes and some Red Kote to seal it from the inside and it was as good as new. Once it was painted, it turned out great and required very little effort on my part to get it that way.

 
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